Lyon is where the fast moving Rhône River is joined by the lazy Saone River. Lyon is where we also slowed down from our hectic Parisian week. Lyon is 292 miles from Paris, an hour and 52 minutes by bullet train, but a long way from Paris hustle and bustle. As the self proclaimed second largest city in France, it seemed quaint in comparison. In between, traveling at up to 200 mph, the country side is a blur. Such was our introduction to Southern France.
In Lyon, we boarded the Viking Heimdal, for an eight-day cruise down the Rhône River. Along the way we sailed through historic southern France and the Provence wine growing area.
Built in 2015, the Heimdal is 443 feet long and holds 190 guests and 53 crew members. Embarking in Lyon, The Heimdal traveled through the southern French countryside, stopping in Vienne, Tournon, Viviers, Avignon, and Arles.
The boat went through 12 locks during the cruise down the Rhône River. The locks on the river are actually man-made cement canals that run parallel to electricity-generating dams. It was amazing to see how a very long boat can fit though the locks with only inches to spare.
One morning, we woke up and opened the curtains to find that we could reach out and touch a wet cement wall that minutes before had been 50 feet under water inside the lock. The Bollène lock near Avignon is the deepest lock on the Rhône River and in France. Boats using this lock gain or lose 75 feet in altitude in minutes. That's roughly the height of a seven-story building.
Another morning, Bob threw open the curtains in just his pajama bottoms to find passengers in a ship tied up next to us staring at me.
According to Wikipedia, Lyon “is recognized for its cuisine and gastronomy, as well as historical and architectural landmarks; including the districts of Old Lyon, the Fourvière hill, the Presqu'île and the slopes of the Croix-Rousse that are on the UNESCO World Heritage List.”
Lyon's 2000-year history have left visible traces in the city's architectural and cultural heritage, from Roman ruins to Renaissance palaces to contemporary skyscrapers. Unlike many cities in Europe, it never went through a major disaster (earthquake, fire, extensive bombing...) or a complete redesign by urban planners.
Lyon was historically known for the production and weaving of silk. Lavender fields are a big draw in Provence in the summer and lavender gifts are a year-round product favorite of the area.
Given all of the various modes of transportation, the number of necessary transfers, and the need for “purchasing self-control” while on the move for three week, Bob’s mandate was to travel with less. After nine days on the road, our first priority in Lyon was to head for a laundromat. We found one a short walk from our boat that resulted in a challenging French learning experience.
Next we sailed for Vienne, about 25 miles south of Lyon, and we were fortunate to arrive in time for their large Saturday street market. It was the largest street market we had ever seen.
Vienne was once a Roman capital so many Roman ruins remain throughout the city. The Temple of Augustus and Livia and the 1,400-seat Roman Colosseum which were both built in the 1st century and are still used for public plays and concerts today.
Sunday found us another 36 miles downstream from Vienne in Tournon sur Rhône for a ride on the Tournon Steam Train des Gorges along the Doux River into the scenic Doux valley — a area that is inaccessible by road.
At the end of the line on the gauge track the stream engine had to be disconnected from the train so it could travel in the opposite direction down the mountain and back to the station. Only one man was needed to turn the 44-ton train engine to the opposite direction on a turntable by hand. The engineer then connected the engine to the train for the return trip.
We also met Steve and Stella Hayward from England the first afternoon aboard during the boat’s muster station safely drill. We had such a delightful and humorous conversation with them that we could not recall anything from the safety talk. Steve is a retired British naval officer having served on submarines for over 25 years. He completed his career as the commander of a British submarine and had many stories he could not devulge — he knew a lot about international military and political issues. When Carolyn asked him, “You were on a submarine for 25 years?” Stella piped up, “ Well, at least twice — we have two daughters.” Steve’ comeback was that when he did get home, the first thing he did was to check to see if the toilet step was up! We had many good laughs with this special couple.
Steve told us that 2050 years ago, the carts for the chariot races got wider and wider in order to give them greater competitive racing advantage. Thus, Caesar decreed that the wheel width could not be wider than 4 feet 8 1/2 inches which then became the standard for all chariots and carts.
In ancient times, Roman “railways” were actually ruts dug into stone roads that kept the wheels of carriages or carts from leaving the road. Thus, the standard width of railroads in the U.S. and U.K. of 4 feet 8-1/2 inches was adopted from the wheel-width of Roman chariots, which led to the standard width of road lanes, trains, tunnels and bridges. The space shuttle was also designed to allow for transport by rail — rails that still uses Caesar's wheel-width standard.
On our way from Tournon to Avignon we passed many steep hillside vineyards, which Dr. Tom also skillfully painted. Avignon is 78 miles from Tournon. During the journey to Avignon, the ship made a nighttime stop in Viviers. The nighttime walking tour of Viviers was a highlight of the Viking cruise.
Our talented, delightful guide, Frances Vandy, is a lifelong resident of Viviers.
Viviers is a tiny village lost in its own world as the most preserved Middle Ages village in France. The town, established in the 5th century, is home to Saint-Vincent Cathedral, the oldest cathedral in France that is still in use. Its architecture has not changed since the Renaissance.
We were fortunate to pair up with our guide, Frances Vandy, who was, hands down, the best guide of entire trip! What made Frances special as a guide was her under-stated and self-effacing humor along with her wonderful storytelling. As she took our small group down narrow, dark streets, she would shine her flashlight on windows beckoning residents she had know for years to greet us. When they didn’t come to the window, she would tell us humorous stories about them and their mansions hidden behind plain blank walls.
Most of the interconnected buildings were very plain from the outside, as the Catholic church in the Middle Ages taught the residents not to show their wealth. We would see big blank walls, and Francis told us that inside there are beautiful estates with courtyards, gardens and elegant rooms.
We ambled down the cobbled streets to view many plain-walled estate exteriors, but in the middle of this town, we were suddenly confronted with a house with an elaborate Renaissance facade, the Maison des Chevaliers. This four-story beautiful façade was build in 1546 by Noël Albert, Frances tells us. He was a rich business man involved in collecting taxes for the Catholic Church that ruled the town, and, it is thought, also he may have been skimming off the top. He wanted — against all Catholic teachings of the times — to show his wealth by building an elegant facade on his house. This as well as his questionable tax reporting practices angered the church fathers and he was eventually executed by beheading.
Frances told us that the moral the story is to be careful in reporting your taxes and showing your off your wealth or you too could lose your head.
The next morning we were awoke at our next port of call, Avignon. During the 14th century it was the home of seven different Catholic popes. During this time, Avignon was a center of Christianity for nearly 100 years. A massive 3 1/3 acre Palace of the Popes was the most fortified palace of the time with 3 miles of 20 foot high and 10 foot thick walls. Its’ grandeur was also a symbol of papal power. Today it's the largest surviving Gothic palace in Europe.
The acoustics inside the main chapel, which was the size of a football field. was amazing. Our guide gave a demonstration with his operatic voice as you can hear above.
After a very boring stop at the quilt shop — for the guys — It looks like Jennifer is asking Carolyn, “Where can we lead them next?”
It was back to the ship for tea before happy hour and dinner. There was no shortage of good food and drinks on the cruise. Will power was another issue. After a full day in Avignon it was on to our last port of call, Arles.
Arles is best known for the Amphitheatre of Arles, the best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world.
Our guide told us that Vincent Van Gogh lived in Arles in the South of France for more than a year. He produced over 300 paintings including some of his most famous works there before suffering a mental breakdown and cutting off his ear. While he lived there, he invited fellow artist, Paul Gauguin to join him in his house. But Gauguin complained so much about Van Gogh’s food and housekeeping, that in a drunken rage, Van Gogh cut off his ear to silence Gauguin complaining. He was admitted to a hospital and then to an asylum, where he still continued to paint, including his most famous painting The Starry Night.
On our last afternoon on the Viking cruise, we took a Delights of Provence excursion to the Moulin Saint Jean olive oil farm in Fonvielle about 10 miles northwest of Arles. This has been a family business for over 500 years and they produce the top international award-winning olive oil in the world.
We continue on the excursion to town of Saint Remy.
According to our guide, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is one of the prettiest towns Provence. We walk past beautiful mansions, chapels and homes dating back to the 17th century. Nearby, are vineyards and vacation villas owned by famous celebrities, such as Hugh Grant and Oprah Winfrey.
Lessons Learned
Lesson 1. In France if you cheat on reporting taxes or show off your wealth, you could lose your head.
In French laundromats, be prepared to make separate charges for each washer and dryer load.
Lesson 2. For men only, if you are separated from your wife for a long period, you may want to check to see when you first get home if the toilet seat is up or down.
Lesson 3. In both France and Italy, U.S. dollars are frowned upon in preference to euros or credit cards.
Lesson 4. If you don’t carefully watch what you eat on a long European trip, you could look like this couple.