COSTA RICA 2022, Part 2 Arenal Volcano

2022 is a big year for us. Hali is a having a significant birthday this year, and we are also having our 25th anniversary. Big year. So we decided that we could splurge and take a trip to Costa Rica with one of our favorite guides - Greg Basco of Foto Verde Tours. Greg leads photographic tours in Costa Rica (and other places). The tour we joined this year had the same outline as the first tour we took with Greg 10 years prior. The places that we visited during this trip were different from our trip 10 years ago, but the overall theme is similar. Two noticeable differences were (1) the size of the group was a bit larger this time around, and (2) the co-leader for this tour was Greg's partner in Foto Verde Tours, Paulo Valerio-Murphy. Paulo, like Greg, has an often humorous personality that we enjoyed very much. The last (but not least) staff person on this trip was our friendly driver, Enrique.

For us, the total trip length was about 2 weeks long. The proper tour was only 10 days and began when all the participants met at a wonderful little resort on the outskirts of San Jose -- The Hotel Bougainvillea. We then traveled to the lowlands rain forest and spent a few days there. Next we moved on to the Arenal Volcano and spend a few days there. Then we traveled to the cloud forest and spend a few days there. Lastly we traveled back to the Hotel Bougainvillea and spent one final night there before our departure. The outline of the tour was designed so that the destinations begin at the lowest altitude and move upward as the trip progresses. We took so many pictures at each of the main destinations that we have decided to break up the web pages into one page per major destination (3 web pages for this trip). The first page showed images from our stay in the lowlands rain forest (click here to see that page). This is the second page, which covers our time at the Arenal Observatory Lodge (and travel to and from the lodge). We hope you enjoy viewing these images as much as we enjoyed taking them.

On our trip from the lowlands rain forest (see Part 1) to Arenal, we stopped at a wonderful farm in the countryside -- Finca Dos Calaveras.

***Click on any image to see it full size***

The Macaw Farm

Finca Dos Calveras was a stop we had made 10 years ago on our first trip with Greg. It is a farm that also supports the endangered Great Green Macaws by growing the trees that they breed in. They are also a rescue. They take in Macaws and other native birds and animals that have had problems. It is also a place where a large tribe of white-faced (capuchin) monkeys come to feed. The monkeys know when there are tourists, there will be food, they come down out of the trees to grab the peanuts that are put out for the Macaws.

They were awfully cute, but they were little thieves. You had to watch out, or they might grab your hat or anything loose. (Top Left, Nikon D850 & Nikon 80-400mm) (Top Right and Bottom) Hali's shots of two of the monkeys. (Canon R5, RF 100-500mm)

Great Green macaws have been called the giant coalmine canaries of tropical forests. The loss of the species indicates the loss of a healthy tropical forest. They are sensitive to both habitat and food. They feed on the nuts of mountain almond trees. Furthermore, they also only nest in these trees, and only large ones have cavities big enough to nest in. But these trees are endangered, they were logged for their hardwood to use in construction. 100 years ago you could find them all over Costa Rica, but in 2012 there were less than 250 wild Great Green Macaws due to deforestation and poaching. In 2008 the Supreme Court of Costa Rica declared that mountain almond trees could not be cut down until both the tree and the great green macaw were no longer endangered. Their numbers have rebounded since then but they are still considered critically endangered.

Just like a little kid, this great green macaw enjoyed nibbling on its toes. This unlikely couple of a great green macaw (Ara ambiguus) and a scarlet macaw (Ara macao) seemed to enjoy each other's company, we saw them together on this stump and on the roof of the building. Both shots were taken with the Canon R5 and the 100-500mm lens.

This odd couple seemed to enjoy hanging around together. On left is a scarlet macaw (Ara macao). On right is a great green macaw (Ara ambiguus), also known as Buffon's macaw or the great military macaw. Both shots taken with the Nikon D850 & Nikon 80-400mm.

Close-ups of the scarlet and great green macaw. Taken with the Canon R5 and the 100-500mm lens

It started to rain while we were there, but it was getting time for lunch, after which we hoped to go photograph the macaws in flight. While we waited for our (very yummy) home made lunch. Hali continued to photograph from inside and underneath the eves of the building. Left, the family dog resting on a step while it rained, iPhone 13 Pro. Right a pair of white-faced monkeys relaxing in the top of a tree, Canon R5 and 100-500mm lens.

They also provide great opportunities for groups of photographers, some will fly from one part of a field to another much to the photographers delight.

Three more shots of scarlet macaws (Ara macao). The top image (in flight) is one of Mike's favorite shots from the trip. These birds can sometime look a bit rough in the wild, but the one in the bottom right shot looks beautiful. All 3 shots were taken with the Nikon D850 & Nikon 80-400mm.

Some more shots of the great green macaws in flight. Left image was shot with a Canon R5, 100-500mm lens. The two images on the center and right were taken with a Nikon D850 & Nikon 80-400mm.

While trying to line up a shot for some of the birds in flight, this one scarlet macaw flew right over Mike's head. The cloudy sky made for an almost perfect backdrop. Taken with the Nikon D850 & Nikon 80-400mm.

Arenal Observatory Lodge

Arenal Volcano underwent a significant eruption in 1968. Because of that eruption, scientists from the Smithsonian Institution began visiting the area. They camped in the area often enough that the local land owners built cabins and a small hotel to take care of them. Eventually that 'camp' grew into the lodge seen today (this version of the lodge was actually built in 1987). It is a wonderful resort, and we would highly recommend this as a stop for anyone visiting the area. The grounds are beautiful and vast (870 acres), but visitors should be cautious when walking about. Venomous snakes are common, but will likely not be a problem if you stay in the center of the established trails. Never walk through the brush or off trial (here or anywhere in Costa Rica). As a side note, there was a fer de lance removed from the bushes just outside our room during our first visit here. And during this recent visit, we spotted a small pit viper resting on a leaf just inches from the walking trail.

As we were pulling up the road to the lodge, our guides spotted some monkeys in the trees, so... (phone image courtesy of Paulo)

While we were stopped on the road we walked a way up it hoping to find the monkey's closer, Greg pointed out the cool patterns in the leaves of the Cecropia Tree that had been fenestrated by bugs, left. Taken with the Canon R5 and the 100-500mm lens. Right: Hali saw this piece of a fern that had broken off and fallen onto the walkway. She liked the light and the contrast of the color and textures. Canon R5 and the 24-240mm lens.

Just a couple of iPhone pictures that Mike took to give people a bit of a feel for the lodge. I have to say that after coming from the 'rustic' accommodations in the lowlands rain forest, coming here was like heaven!

The Arenal volcano and grounds of the Arenal Observatory lodge from our room. We were told by a woman we talked to that evening on the deck at the restaurant, that she had been there for 4 days and hadn't seen the top of the volcano until just then. This was the only day we saw it also. Infrared shot by Hali 720nm. Canon RP with the 24-240mm lens.

A beautiful sunset over lake Arenal (and the only one we saw). Taken with the Canon R5 and the RF 24-240mm lens

An iPhone panoramic image that Mike shot right at sunset. This was the clearest view of the volcano during our entire stay. The corner of the lodge restaurant is shown on the left side of the image.

The next morning we split into two groups, one stayed at the lodge for the morning while the other group went to do some macro work at a place that we had been to 10 years ago - run by Victor and his family. Hali was excited to take some pictures of the Rainbow Eucalyptus Tree (on the left) so we spent some time with that. Then we climbed to the top of a tower on the grounds of the lodge and got a beautiful view of Lake Arenal and the surrounding area. Top right - Mike is at the base of the tower next to the caution sign. On the way down we spied some ferns and Hali took a shot of that too. All shots are with the Canon R5 and the RF 100-500mm lens.

The view from the top of the tower. There was a sign at the base of the tower that reads (in translation) "To reach 'The View' (28 m) you climb 146 steps. The tower could move by the wind and the movement of visitors". It was a long walk up (and down) and we could definitely feel the tower move while we were up there! Hali was a glutton for punishment, so she did it three times (The first time with the color camera, the second with the infrared, and the third time because she thought, for just a moment, that the top of the volcano would be visible. It wasn't)

During our morning walk around the grounds, Mike shot the image on the left with his iPhone (a fern hidden in the mangrove roots). On the right is a rufous-tailed hummingbird (Amazilia tzacatl), shot with the Nikon D850 & Nikon 80-400mm.

Macro Session #1

The smooth helmeted iguana (Corytophanes cristatus), also known as the helmeted iguana, the helmeted basilisk, the elegant helmeted lizard, and several other common names.It can be grey, olive, brown, black or reddish-brown with irregular blotches. It can also change the color of its skin as a method of camouflage. The crest is present in both males and females of the species, though the crest is larger in males. These two shots were both taken with a Nikon D850 & Nikon 105mm.

Three shots of a tropical banded gecko (Coleonyx mitratus), AKA Central American banded gecko. The two on the left were taken with a Nikon D850 & Nikon 105mm. The image on the right was taken with a Canon R6 and the RF 100mm lens. These geckos are common in the pet trade because they are easy to keep and handle. They are crepuscular, and hide in burrows in the soil during the day -- then come out at dusk to forage for insects.

Two shots of a Horned Katydid (Copiphora rhinoceros). On the left is Hali's (Canon R6 RF 100mm) and on right is Mike's (Nikon D850 & Nikon 105mm).

A beautiful eyelash pitviper (Bothriechis schleglii). Mike's image is on the left (Nikon D850 & Nikon 105mm). The center one Hali calls "Still Life with Viper", both the center and the one on the right were taken with the Canon R6 RF 100mm lens

Sometimes it's hard for people to imagine how a shot was taken. In this case, Mike took an iPhone picture (on left) of Hali getting the shot of a boa constrictor -- on the right is the developed image, taken with the Canon R6 and the 100mm lens.

Boa constrictor (Boa imperator). Both shots with the Nikon D850 & Nikon 105mm.

The now famous red-eyed tree frog (Agalychnis callidryas). The shot on the left was taken with the Canon R6 and the 100mm lens. The shots in the middle and on the right were taken with the Nikon D850 & Nikon 105mm.

Hali's shots of the reticulated glass frog (Hyalinobatrachium valerioi). You can see why they are called "glass" frogs. The heart and part of the circulatory system are easily seen on the image on the right. Both images taken with the Canon R6 & RF 100mm.

On left is a masked tree frog (Smilisca phaeota). On right is the blue jeans color morph of the strawberry poison frog, or strawberry poison-dart frog (Oophaga pumilio). Both shots taken with the Nikon D850 & Nikon 105mm.

The lighting makes a big difference! Shown here are two very similar shots of a reticulated glass frog (Hyalinobatrachium valerioi). The shot on the left is lit from behind the leaf, casting light through both the leaf and the famously translucent frog. The shot on the right is lit from the front (same leaf, same frog). Both shots taken with the Nikon D850 & Nikon 105mm.

Hourglass treefrog (Dendropsophus ebraccatus). The two very similar shots on the left were taken with the Nikon D850 & Nikon 105mm. The one on the right was taken with the Canon R6 & RF100mm.

Two more shots of the hourglass treefrog. On left, the image shows how this frog can blend in with the colors of the native leaves (Nikon D850 & Nikon 105mm). On right is what happens when the photographer get too close to an excitable subject (iPhone image).

On left is a tiger rump tarantula (Cyclosternum fasciatum). In the middle is a striated salamander (Bolitoglossa striatula), AKA the cukra climbing salamander. It has no lungs or gills and breathes through its skin. It has a nose, but that is used for food and predator detection. On the right is a Mexican mouse opossum. You can't see it here, but they have a prehensile tail that is as long as their body length. All three shots taken with the Nikon D850 & Nikon 105mm.

Macro Session #2

Then next day, after breakfast, we reversed the order of the groups and our group went to shoot at Victor's first. Our morning started with some dangerous characters. Pit vipers are venomous snakes that are characterized by a deep pit between the eye and nostril on both sides of the head. That fossa, or loreal pit as it's known, are the openings for very sensitive infrared-detecting organs. This gives the snakes an extra sense to help them find prey. These snakes are ambush predators, they wait for their unsuspecting prey to go by them, rather than looking for their next meal.

Left: Central American jumping pit viper (Metlapilcoatlus mexicanus) taken with the Canon R5 & RF 100-500mm. Center: the same pit viper taken from a slightly different angle (Nikon D850 & Nikon 80-400mm). Right: Middle American rattlesnake or Central American rattlesnake (Crotalus simus) taken with the Nikon D850 & Nikon 80-400mm.

The Fer-de-lance (Bothrops asper) is one of the largest pit vipers. It has been called "the ultimate pit viper" (ref: Wikipedia) because of its overall size, the size of its fangs, and the amount of venom it produces. It is mostly nocturnal and, like other venomous snakes, it tries to avoid confrontations with humans. Nevertheless, it is responsible for the most snakebites within its range because it is so defensive of its territory, and it's tendency to wander into human territory. Left: Canon R5 & RF 100-500mm. Right: Nikon D850 & Nikon 80-400mm

Left: Mike, looking a bit tired but relaxed, taking a break after the session with the snakes. Right: Glyn, one of the other participants on the workshop took this shot of us at the macro shoot. Both shots from iPhones.

On top is a shot of a praying mantis (Mantodea). On the bottom is a shot of a camouflage katydid (Tettigoniidae). Both shots were taken with the Nikon D850 & Nikon 105mm.

An emerald glass frog (Espadarana prosoblepon), trying to keep its toes out of the water. All three shots were taken with the Nikon D850 & Nikon 105mm.

It's not easy being green. Emerald Glass frog (Espadarana prosoblepon) over a small pool of water. Canon R6 & RF 100mm.

It was really difficult to get pictures of these Walking Sticks (Phasmodea). Left (Nikon D850 & Nikon 105mm.) Right: A little rain along with a flash exposure that let in some natural light really shows off the walking stick Canon R6 & RF100mm.

One of the new things we were excited to try was using wide-angle lenses for macro (with flash). Greg and Paolo have made an excellent study of it, creating some incredible images with different flash set-ups and wide-angle lenses. As always, they were generous (and patient!) in sharing their knowledge on how to balance the flash and the ambient light.

Left (Nikon Z7ii & Nikon 24-70mm) Right: The smooth headed iguana set up on a perch (which it tried to escape off of multiple times) on Victors patio, shot with the Canon R6 and the RF 14-35mm lens and the flash off camera set to just fill in.

Back at the Lodge

After lunch, we went back to the lodge to spend the afternoon, it was gray, overcast, and slightly rainy, but we made the best of our free time. The first thing we saw, even before returning to our rooms, was a family group of coati having tussles and playing in the grass.

White-nosed coati (Nasua narica), also known as coatimundi. Both shots were taken with the Nikon D810 & Nikon 80-400mm.

We took a walk along the trails to the Danta Waterfall and the hanging bridge. The waterfall was full and gushing due to the recent heavy rains. There was so much water that Hali couldn't keep her lens dry and quickly gave up on shooting close in and took a few steps back, then eventually packed all of her wet gear up to continue the hike.

Top left: Mike snuck in an iPhone shots before retreating from the super-wet area. Top Right: Canon R6 & RF 14-35mm lens long exposure. Bottom Left: an iPhone shot of Hali on the Dante hanging bridge, which we hiked to after the waterfall. Bottom Right: Another iPhone shot of the Dante waterfall from Mike, but this one using the fake long exposure trick.

Drive to the Cloud Forest

The next morning, we packed up and got ready to drive to the cloud forest. On our way out we passed the river and saw a pair of Sunbitterns (Eurypyga helias) and a Faciated Tiger Heron (Tigrisoma fasciatum). Despite the rain we all piled out and started shooting.

Top: Sun Bittern calling out (and a fly underneath its beak), and then displaying its beautiful tail feathers Canon R5 & RF 100-500mm. Bottom left (Nikon D850 & Nikon 80-400mm.) Bottom Right: With the ISO all the way down and the aperture closed to f/32 Hali slowed the water down. You can see how still that tiger heron stayed, despite the rushing water, while it waited for a fish to swim by. Canon R5 &RF 100-500 1/10th sec exposure.

I think the sign says it all. We made a stop along the way and bought some dark chocolate truffles. Iphone shot.

Danaus Ecocenter

Ecocentro Danaus is a Biological Reserve with about 7 1/2 acres of land, importantly including a natural spring. On the surface, it could be viewed as a park with walking trails. But more than that, they have environmental education and conservation programs. If you are a tourist with a camera, this is a good spot to visit!

Hali had to do some small scenes despite all the wildlife around, Right: Leaf cutter ants in action. Canon R5 & RF 100-500mm lens.

The blue morpho butterfly (left) is not only beautiful, but they are among the largest butterflies in the world -- with wings spanning from five to eight inches. Sadly, Mike could not catch this one with it's brilliant blue wings open. When their wings are closed, the dull brown color with multiple eye spots is thought to confuse predators. On right is a juvenile coral snake -- the first one we have ever seen in the wild. Both images were taken with the Nikon D850 & Nikon 80-400mm.

Selva Rustica

We stopped for a great lunch at a restaurant which had a small pond in the back. There were a pair of boat-billed herons (Cochlearius cochlearius) and a raft of Muscovy Ducks (Cairina moschata). Muscovy ducks are native to Costa Rica and Central America despite their name. Muscovy ducks are rarely wild and are raised for their lean (compared to other ducks) breast meat and eggs. They are the only domesticated duck not derived from wild mallards.

Top left: Boat Billed Heron (Canon R5 & 100-500mm) Top Middle: Nikon D850 & Nikon 80-400mm. Top Right and Bottom Left: Muscovy Ducks (Canon R5 & 100-500mm) Bottom Right (Nikon D850 & Nikon 80-400mm.)

After this lunch stop, we finished the drive to the cloud forest and Bosque de Paz. But that is another web page (coming soon)...

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Hali & Jim Sowle

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