Cosmetic Formulations
Skincare Formulation Basics
These are products designed to improve the appearance and feel of skin. The skin care market makes up about 30% of all cosmetics sold which is the largest share of any category. In Canada the skincare market is worth 1 Billion USD. Skin care products can be classified further by how they work and what they do.
So, there are products that are left behind on the skin. These include moisturizing products designed to improve the look and feel of skin. There are also anti-aging products that promise to get rid of the signs of aging skin (for example wrinkles, age spots, dry skin, etc). There are sunless tanners which change the color of skin. And there are over-the-counter drug products that protect from the sun, treat skin medical conditions, treat acne, and actually reduce wrinkles.
Emulsions
Oil-in-Water vs. Water-in-Oil
Emulsions may be either oil-in-water or water-in-oil. Generally, when formulating oil-in-water vs. water-in-oil emulsions, one phase (known as the dispersed phase) is mixed into the other (the continuous phase). In other words, one liquid serves as a sort of base into which another liquid is added. When an emulsion is “oil-in-water,” oil is the dispersed phase that is distributed into the continuous phase, water. In a water-in-oil emulsion, the roles are switched. Milk is an example of an oil-in-water emulsion, while butter is water-in-oil.
What is the Difference?
What is the difference between an oil-in-water emulsion vs. a water-in-oil emulsion? The main difference involves the use of emulsifying agents, since some are more compatible with one phase than the other. An emulsifier that is easily soluble in water is likely to provide an oil-in-water emulsion better than water-in-oil. Otherwise, the primary difference between an oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsion is which type of liquid is suspended throughout the other. This makes a difference in the end product. Balms and body butters are a great examples of water-in-oil. The water phase is significantly smaller than the oil phase in these types of formulas. Oil-in-water emulsions are most common for lotions, cleansers and most creams.
Sample - Basic Cream
Formula Procedure
Into a suitable vessel equipped with heating, cooling and agitation capabilities, prepare A. Begin to mix and heat to 70°C–75°C (158–167°F). Into a separate vessel, combine B. Heat to 70–75°C (158-167°F) with continuous mixing. Add B to A with good mixing. Agitate for 20-30 min. With constant mixing, cool to 43°C (110°F). If necessary, adjust pH to 4.0–4.5 with citric acid or sodium hydroxide. Add potassium chloride dissolved in water. Add remaining ingredients as desired. At 38°C (100°F), homogenize the product and cool to RT.
Read Ingredient Labels
$32.00
Aqua/Water/Eau, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Glycerin, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Alcohol, Dimethicone, Mica, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Chloride, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Chlorphenesin, Propylene Carbonate, Boron Nitride, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Zea Mays (Corn) Oil, Diamond Powder, Quercus Suber Bark Extract. May Contain/Peut Contenir (±): CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides)
READING FORMULAS
24-Hour Tinted Moisturizer - Floratech
This tinted cream is an extended moisturizer, which continuously moisturizes the skin with the latest in moringa emolliency and jojoba moisturization technology. Floraesters K-20W Jojoba serves a dual purpose by providing jojoba emolliency while neutralizing the polymer system in this formula.
Formula Procedure
Place A at RT. Allow to hydrate. Heat the solution to 70°C with moderate propeller agitation. Disperse B and heat the mixture to 70°C. Add this to A with moderate propeller agitation. Mix C and heat to 70°C. With rapid propeller agitation, add C to AB to form the emulsion. Add D to ABC with moderate propeller agitation. Move the mixture to the homogenizer and agitate until a smooth cream is formed. Dissolve E. Add to the mixture while using the homogenizer to blend the formula. Add F to the mixture using the homogenizer to disperse and blend each one completely into the mix. Dissolve G at 70°C. Add this solution to the mixture while using the homogenizer to blend the formula. Cool the mixture to RT.
Recommended Packaging - Package in tubes or jars.
Serum - Aqueous Based
Sample - Refreshing Glow Serum
This facial serum brightens the skin for a healthy, younger glow.
Formula Procedure
Add B to A and let swell for 30 min. Add C to AB while stirring for 15 min under high shear. Add D to ABC. Add E and stir for 5 min. Combine F and add slowly to batch stirring until homogeneous. Add G to batch.
Serum - Oil Based
Procedure: Blend and heat the first nine ingredients of A to 70-75°C. Cool to 45°C and add fragrance and preservatives.
Barrier Cream
Barrier creams (BCs) and moisturizers are popular skincare products. Though BCs and moisturizers are not identical, probably due to their confusing definitions, the terms BC and moisturizer are often used interchangeably in marketing of cosmetic products. The purpose of BCs is to prevent external harmful substances from penetrating skin, usually in an occupational setting (manufacturing or construction), whereas moisturizers are frequently used for dry skin conditions as well as to maintain healthy skin. However, moisturizers and BCs share characteristics, thus it can be difficult to distinguish between the two.
Sample - Natural Botanicals Night Cream
Part of a multi-step K-Beauty facial regimen, this rich, moisturizing night cream contains Meadowfoam Seed Oil for a substantial feel, balanced perfectly by Daikon Seed Extract to give a light, smooth, silky rubout with a non-greasy yet moisturizing feel. Botanically based preservatives include honeysuckle extract and honeysuckle flower extract.
Formula Procedure
Combine A and heat to 75-80°C. In a separate vessel, combine B and heat to 75-80°C. Add B to A with rapid propeller stirring to emulsify. Cool to 45°C with moderate stirring and add C. Adjust pH to 5.5-6.5 range.
Sample - Barrier Cream
SPF
Since the development of the first sunscreen or “attenuation” grades of titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide (ZnO) about 35 years ago, these inorganic materials have gradually increased their share of the UV filters market. The advantages of TiO2 and ZnO are well-known: an excellent safety profile, high SPF efficacy, broad spectrum protection and photostability. Despite these advantages, however, the market share for inorganic sunscreens grew slowly to begin with, mainly due to the poorly perceived aesthetics, i.e., skin feel and whitening, associated with them.
Then they were caught up in the “nano debate,” with speculation that the small particles might penetrate through the skin, leading to as-yet-unknown hazards. Fortunately, these concerns have proven to be unfounded, and nano-sized inorganic sunscreens have now been recognized as safe for use in all major sunscreen markets around the world.
On the surface, sunscreen products are pretty simple. They consist of a delivery vehicle containing one or more sunscreen active ingredients. When applied to the skin, these sunscreen actives intercept solar ultraviolet (UV) rays before they can damage the underlying skin. However, while conceptually simple, a detailed analysis reveals that sunscreen formulations are quite complex, requiring careful selection of sunscreen active and vehicle components to control multiple performance and in-use parameters.Thus, to enable a better understanding and appreciation of sunscreen products, the typical steps in formulating a sunscreen product are described. Throughout this process, the key is to apply scientific principles together with a bit of formulation art to holistically create the best sunscreen product that meets the design targets--a sunscreen product that people will use regularly and properly.
Example of SPF Tinted Moisturizer
Philosophy had launched a tinted moisturizer that offered moisturization and sun protective benefits. Supernatural Superbeautiful- Good-For-Skin Makeup SPF 20 offered natural color in a water-based formula that is beneficial to skin and will not clog pores. The formulation contained natural, plant-based moisturizers, minerals, vitamins and antioxidants. The tinted moisturizer is said to provide natural-looking coverage and a healthy, radiant finish.
Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide = 4.5%, Zinc Oxide = 2.0%. Inactive Ingredients: Water (aqua), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Olive Oil, Glycerin, Silica, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteth-20 Phosphate, Dicetyl Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Phenoxyethanol, Lecithin, Alumina, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Squalane, Xanthan Gum, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hydroxide, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. May Contain (+/-): Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, 77492, 77499).
Sample - Tinted BB Cream
Formula Procedure
In the main kettle, disperse A with rapid mixing for 15 minutes or until free of lumps, then heat to 70˚C to 75˚C. Grind/blend B until uniform, then add to A with rapid mixing. In a separate vessel, heat C to 75-80˚C and mix well. Slowly add C to AB with medium mixing until a smooth emulsion is formed. Start to cool. Continue mixing on medium speed, scraping sides often. Add D when temperature is at or below 35°C, continue mixing and cooling to 25°C.
Clean Formulations
A strong technical rationale for each ingredient used, especially actives
Formulation simplification, less in better
Use of multi-functional ingredients
Use of actives credentialed/recommended by dermatologists or backed by clinicals performed using peer reviewed methods
Avoidance of using highly unsaturated ingredients prone to oxidation. Especially natural oils containing high levels of polyunsaturated fatty acids
A though understanding of ingredients used along with impurities
Minimize the use level of preservatives, fragrances, essential oils and emulsifiers. Avoid using Phenoxyethanol and Benzyl alcohol since they can cause neurosensory skin irritation.
Good Face Index™ - Restricted Toxins List
Benzalkonium Chloride : An organic salt which serves as a surfactant, common cause for severe skin, eye and respiratory irritation, as well as an allergy trigger for a variety of other substances. Common in: sunscreen products and moisturizers.
● BHA : A synthetic preservative and fragrance. Proven endocrine disruptor, a possible carcinogen, and is bioaccumulative in waterways and wildlife. Common in: lipsticks, moisturizers, diaper creams, and other personal care products.
● BHT : A chemical used in food, cosmetics and industrial fluids. It prevents oxidation and free radical formation. Very toxic to aquatic life with long lasting effects. Common in: lipsticks, moisturizers, diaper creams, and other personal care products.
● Family of Ethanolamines: Surfactants and pH adjusters. Shown allergen and respiratory toxicants with hormonal disruption tendencies. Common in: hair dyes, mascara, foundation, fragrances, sunscreens, dry cleaning solvents, paint, pharmaceuticals.
● Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde Releasers: A variety of strong preservatives that degrade to formaldehyde, which is a known carcinogen. Common in: most bath and shower products.
● Hydroquinone: A skin bleaching agent linked to multiple organ toxicity, and cancer. Common in: complexion-whitening products.
● Methylisothiazolinone: Skin conditioning agent and preservative, a common cause for contact dermatitis, and skin allergies. Common in: shampoo, conditioner, body wash.
● Methylchloroisothiazolinone: A chemical preservative which is a known irritant, and a strong skin sensitizer. Common in: shampoo, conditioner, body wash.
● Oxybenzone : Oxybenzone is a hormone disruptor. There is scientific evidence that it disrupts endocrine and thyroid hormone balances. Oxybenzone is bioaccumulative, which means it’s absorbed into the body at an unhealthy rate, and accumulates in tissues and organs. It is also an environmental contaminant that causes coral bleaching and damages reefs. Common in: sunscreen, moisturizers.
● Parabens: A family of anti-bacterial, and anti-mold preservatives ubiquitous in conventional cosmetics, and roven hormone disruptors. Common in: all cosmetic product categories.
Phthalates: A category of chemicals used for making fragrance stick to skin and extend the life of its aroma. Exposure to phthalates during gestation causes infertility, cryptorchidism and problems in sperm development, adverse effects similar to human testicular dysgenesis syndrome. Prenatal exposure has been associated with anatomical changes in the reproductive system development in baby boys, leading to reduced male fertility. Common in: synthetic fragrance, hairspray, and any cosmetics that contain synthetic fragrance.
● Certain PEG ingredients: A family of emulsifiers which can often be contaminated with significant amounts of the proven carcinogens ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane. Common in: shampoos and conditioners.
● SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) and SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate): Commonly called “sulfates”, this is a family of foaming agents which can often be contaminated with significant amounts of the proven carcinogens ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane. Common in: shampoos, conditioners, body wash.
● Synthetic fragrance: The terms "fragrance", "parfum", and "aroma" represent an undisclosed mixture of perfuming ingredients which often include phthalates and other endocrine disruptor compounds. Common in: all personal care product categories.
● Toluene: A potent solvent that is toxic to the liver and the immune system, and a cause for birth defects. Common in: nail polish.
● Triclosan: An antibacterial agent and preservative which affects the thyroid gland and is harmful to aquatic organisms. Common in: facial wash, body wash, liquid soap.
● Triclocarban: An antimicrobial agent and preservative that is harmful to the reproductive system, and is toxic to aquatic life. Common in: facial wash, body wash, liquid soap.
Let's Make a Winning Formula
Product 1 - Day Serum
Product 2 - Night Serum
Product 3 - Night Barrier Cream
Product 4 - Cleanser
Product 5 - Treatment
Product 6 - SPF