First, the story
On September 16, 1810, Miguel Hidalgo proclaimed independence from the local Spanish rulers from the doorway of this church where he was the parish priest as the locals were prevented from growing crops in the rich soil of the area in favor of imports from Spain. This is called the Grito de Dolores ("Cry of Dolores") where he called people to join him in rebellion against the local Spanish rulers in the name of their King, Fernando VII.
Hidalgo had no military training but he teamed up with Ignacio Allende, a captain of the Spanish Army who sympathized with the independence movement. That day they marched, starting with 800 people, to the church of Atotonilco where Hidalgo acquired the banner that he carried into battle of the Virgin of Guadalupe. (Allende had coincidentally been married in this church.)
This church is a World Heritage Site and is considered one of the finest examples of Baroque art and architecture in New Spain.
The march continued South through San Miguel el Grande, the birthplace of Ignacio Allende. This city has since been renamed to San Miguel de Allende.
The town's Spanish and Criollo (pure Spanish blood but born in what is now Mexico) populations numbering 400-600 retreated into the Alhóndiga de Granaditas, the well fortified granary for the town (the large, well lit structure below.)
The rebels took the granary after two heavy days of fighting and killed everyone inside.
Not long after, the authorities recaptured Guanajuato. The following year, 1811, all four leaders (Hidalgo, Allende as well as two other independence leaders, Juan Aldama & Miguel Domínguez) were caught, executed & decapitated. Their heads were hung in cages from the four corners of the Alhóndiga for the next 10 years until independence was achieved in 1821.
Mexican independence from Spain was achieved in 1821, exactly 300 years after Cortéz conquered the region for Spain in 1521.
And though these leaders were killed a decade before independence was achieved, they are celebrated as Mexico's founders with September 16th being Independence Day, the day of Hidalgo's Grito de Dolores.
Other sites in guanajuato
Much of the world's silver came from the mines of Guanajuato. Today it has many roads underneath (with intersections!), an active pedestrian life in the streets (many free of cars), old architecture, houses growing up the hillsides and pictured on top is the Pípila Monument, dedicated to the person attributed with gaining access to the Alhóndiga in 1810.
The large white building is the University of Guanajuato plus views within and around.
Guanajuato is known for its mines that funded the Spanish Empire at its height.
We then took a tour down into an old mine where the local people were forced to work and live captive underground by candlelight, never seeing daylight.
more of san miguel de allende
While touring Colonia Guadalupe we learned that the artist owner of this house noticed that her gardener had a knack for mosaics and she asked him to decorate the outer walls of her home.
San Miguel de Allende is full of artists, colorful streets, parks, views and great restaurants. As a World Heritage Site the centro area architecture is much as it was hundreds of years ago with a surprise behind every door.
And a visit is not complete without a visit to Centro in the evening to hear the many groups of mariachis. So many, that sometimes it is hard to distinguish one group from another.
And the central landmark of San Miguel de Allende is the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel
See more Visual Stories by Jack Paulus. All rights reserved.