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Your Guide to French Wines Be the friend who gets handed the winelist

CHAMPAGNE

The chalky soils of Champagne combined with its frigid growing environment create wines that are electric and salivating. But it’s the creation of bubbles that makes these wines stand out.

The bubbles are formed during a secondary fermentation in bottle, known as Méthode Traditionelle. The longer they age, the more nougat and brioche flavours develop and the finer the bead (bubble) becomes.

In terms of who invented Champagne, the English make a strong case as they worked out the formula for purposely making the fizz happen and their stronger coal-fired glass bottles - resulting from the Industrial Revolution - could hold the pressure. Whereas the French were still bottling in wood-fired glass which wasn’t strong enough and they hadn’t cracked the technique of creating bubbles on purpose.

Grapes - Chardonnay (w), Pinot Noir (r), Pinot Meunier (r)

Styles - Nowhere in the world can emulate the fineness and electric detail of these wines. Non-vintage Champagnes should be enjoyed earlier in their lives, while vintage wines have more structure and can age beautifully. House styles differ too. Blanc des Blancs (100% Chardonnay) offer a more elegant and fragile expression while Blanc des Noirs (100% Pinot and or Meunier) are darker fruited with more obvious structure and power.

Favourite Producers - Pierre Peters, Louis Roederer, Vilmart, Taittinger, Larmandier, Egly-Ouriet, Jacques Selosse

ALSACE

Nestled behind the Vosges Mountains the Alsace region is one of France’s driest and a lovely hotbed for organic and biodynamic viticulture on volcanic soils. History has seen it change hands between Germany and France many times which shows up in the strong Germanic influence in food, architecture and grapes.

Red or White? White wines reign supreme here. Usually dry and savoury, though some can be made in an off-dry style. This is a clear cut region to understand as they usually put the grape variety on the label. There are also two sweeter styles; late picked, vendange tardive and the botrytis infected dessert wine, selections de grains nobles.

Grapes - Riesling (w), Pinot Gris (w), Muscat (w), Gewuztraminer (w)

Style - There’s a lovely minerality thread in these wines due to their volcanic soil origins. Smokey wafts and exotic fruits are on full display in youth. Over time they develop a honeyed richness. Some wines may have a richer mid-palate and can be off-dry in style.

Favourite Producers - Marcel Deiss, Zind-Humbrecht, Domaine Ostertag, Weinbach, Trimbach

BURGUNDY

The soils and vineyards of Burgundy have been very well defined thanks to the studious Monks a few hundred years ago – and the swathe of others who have picked up the baton since.

The Golden Slope (Cote D’or) is divided into two; the Cote du Nuit to the north and the Cote de Beaune to the south. Pinot noir dominates the Cote du Nuit as it loves the limestone nature of the soils and Chardonnay thrives in the heavier calcareous marl soils on the Cote de Beaune.

The essence of Burgundy comes down to the place where the vines are grown. The more definitive you can be (e.g. a single vineyard like Grand Cru or Premier Cru) then the higher the price you’ll pay. A village wine, which will most likely be a blend of vineyards from within the village won’t be as expensive as its origins are a little broader.

To the north, Chablis is an outpost. Lying closer to Champagne than the Cote d’Or, its marine fossil laden soils (Kimmeridgian clay) make scintillating renditions of chardonnay which age beautifully.

To the south the Cote Chalonnais, Maconnais and Beaujolais make wines that are easier on the pocket. There’s some great value to be had here. A few different grapes are added to the mix including Gamay and Aligoté (as well as pinot noir and chardonnay).

Red or White? Both

Grapes - Chardonnay (w), Aligote (w), Pinot Noir (r), Gamay (r)

Styles - The purity of chardonnay is on full display in a bottle of Chablis. Chiselled and tightly wound this is a crisp and salivating white. White Burgundy tends towards a riper heart but with spicy oak support. Red Burgundy

Favourite Producers - Gerard Raphet, Jean-Marc Pillot, Armand Rousseau, Robert Groffier,

JURA

The Jura is a world unto itself. It’s a melting pot of curious whites and reds, many you’ve probably never heard about. A narrow valley wedged between Burgundy and Switzerland, this is countryside filled with limestone cliffs and hillocks upon which the best vines are planted. These wines are tangy, complex, pure and delicious.

Red or White? Both. The whites provide a gamut of styles from the fresh and crisp Savagnin and chardonnays topped up (ouillé), to the oxidative, rich and nutty styles left purposely under-filled to encourage flor development. Minerality is a recurrent theme, threading the whites together. The reds can be a little paler in colour but don’t be fooled as they carry a lot of flavour.

Grapes - Savagnin (w), Chardonnay (w), Ploussard (or Poulsard) (r), Trousseau (r), Pinot Noir (r)

Styles - Most of the whites show saline and hazelnut tones, and if they are developed under flor there are richer yeasty and oyster shell flavours. As for the mountain reds, there is a cooler tannin profile and a lovely show of earthy freshness.

Favourite Producers - Domaine Pelican, Stephane Tissot, Jean Francois Ganevat, Frederic Puffeney, Domaine Rolet

RHONE VALLEY

Northern Rhone

The Rhone Valley is kept in check by a sweeping Mistral wind that is tunnelled from the north of Rhone to the open and flatter southern Rhone. The Rhone river runs through the valley dividing the schist and granite soils.

The Northern Rhone is a difficult place to grow grapes, the slopes are steep to work and costly. Most of the wines grown are premium styles and its production is tiny when compared to Southern Rhone. Syrah hits new heights here in the form of spicy delights.

Red or White? Mainly red with a small amount of white made. And there is a blend where red and white is co-fermented together in Cote Rotie. Syrah with a splash of viognier – a rarity!

Grapes – Syrah (r), Viognier (w), Marsanne (w), Roussanne (w)

Styles - This is spicy syrah land – black olives, smoked meats, cooking spices and heady florals are common tasting descriptors. And the tannins can be firm and fine in youth, becoming slender with age. The whites are richer and fleshy, viognier is the queen of hedonism.

Favourite Producers - Guigal, Coursodon, Pierre Gonon, JL Chave, Bernard Faurie, Balthazar, Stephan Ogier

Southern Rhone

Grenache reigns supreme in the south, although it is commonly blended with Mourvedre and syrah. Planted throughout the region, Grenache loves the warmth and sunny exposition made available to it in southern Rhone. Look out for the galette pebbles found in Chateauneuf du Pape – these heat up during the day and the extra warmth overnight continues to ripen the grapes on the old bush vines.

From rosé to affordable weekday pizza wines (Cotes du Rhone blends) through to ageable beauties like Chateauneuf du Pape, Grenache is a chameleon of grapes centred around vibrant red fruits and slippery tannins.

Red or white? Red and a little rose. There’s also a small amount of a fortified white called Muscat de Beaume de Venise

Grapes - Grenache (r), Syrah (r), Mourvedre (r), Muscat

Favourite Producers - Font du Courtedune, Rayas, Beaucastel, Chateau de Fonsalette, Marcoux, Mont Redon

PROVENCE

Coastal Provence is blessed with Mediterranean sunshine and azure blue seas. To complement this easy-going lifestyle, Rose is the boisson du jour. Its versatility is part of its charm, and also its freshness. It’s a lovely match for their local dish Bouillabaisse.

Moving inland you’ll find the region of Bandol. While rose is also made famous here thanks to estates like Domaine Tempier, age-worthy reds made mainly from Mourvedre are world-famous.

Bandol is an amphitheatre with a little bit of altitude. The grapes bask in the sun, ripen beautifully and carry a unique charisma.

Grapes - Carignan (r) Grenache (r), Syrah (r), Cinsaut (r), Mourvèdre (r), Tibouren (r)

Styles – Nearly all rose is made for early drinking, while the brooding Bandol reds are cellar-worthy.

Favourite Producers - Domaine Tempier, Pibarnon, Rouet

BORDEAUX

Maritime Bordeaux in the west of France is a large producer of quality wines. Although saying that there’s a large gap between the top few who produce ultra-premium wines with hefty price tags (Lafite, Margaux, Y’Quem, Petrus….) and the rest of the field.

The Left Bank with its gravelly composition of soils is more suited to Cabernet Sauvignon while the Right Bank is made up more of clay and this is where Merlot and Cabernet Franc dominate (as they are earlier ripens and don’t mind getting their feet wet). In the middle, the Entre Du Meurs provides a slew of whites and reds made for early drinking.

On the right bank outside of St Emilion and Pomerol, there are a lot of well-priced merlots made that are more for early consumption. These come from the satellite Bordeaux regions.

The English built up a thirst for the better Bordeaux reds which they have coined ‘clarets’. These are often tucked away for a while in their cellars to age and drunk with a few years under their belts. But not all Bordeaux is built for aging, so choose wisely.

Styles – For whites, there are the crisp and easily quaffed whites from Entre De Meurs, or the more ambitious oak-aged Semillion Sauvignon blends from Pessac Legonan. The queen of dessert wines, Sauternes can also call Bordeaux home. These are gloriously sweet, rich and complex.

The top reds are amongst the greatest Cabernet blends and Merlots in the world. They also bare hefty price tags. A lot of value reds can be found throughout too, and also some misely fruited wines.

French oak maturation is a common thread amongst the elite reds, whites and sweet wines.

Grapes – Cabernet Sauvignon (r), Merlot (r), Cabernet Franc (r), Malbec (r), Petit Verdot (r), Semillon (w), Sauvignon Blanc (w), Muscadelle (w)

Favourite Producers - Montrose, Pichon Lalande, Poitevin, D'Yquem, Coutet,

LOIRE VALLEY

Within France, the Loire Valley region produces the greatest diversity of wine styles. The array of wines made reflects the different sub-regions that share little in common due to the region’s sweeping expanse. It’s an exciting mesh of sparkling, dry, sweet, rose and reds styles.

Known as the ‘Garden of France’ the Loire Valley is a prolific food bowl producing delectable treats across cheese, cherries, apples, butter and vegetables. Covering 1000km from east to west, this picturesque region is a feast for both your eyes and tastebuds.

Grapes - Chenin Blanc (w), Melon de Bourgogne (Muscadet) (w), Sauvignon Blanc (w), Cabernet Franc (r), Gamay (r), Pinot Noir (r), Grolleau (r)

Styles - The Muscadets of the Nantais are influenced by the maritime climate. These wines are subtly textured, freshly fruited and best drunk young with some oysters. Anjou is where Chenin Blanc shines in various styles – sparkling, dry and sweet. Touraine is home to the tuffeau soils which Chenin blanc loves in Vouvray, and we see some red wines here too. Lastly, in the Central Vineyards where the soils are similar to Chablis, Sauvignon Blanc is the cross-bearer producing some exhilarating wines in Sancerre and Pouilly Fume

Favourite Producers - Foreau, Pierre Bise, Huet, Dagueneau, Vacheron, Francois Chidaine, Baumard, Pichot, Peppiere

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