So a wonderful flight sale notification arrived in my inbox a few weeks ago...flight to Vienna...in the winter...I jumped at the chance to visit another country. The weeks quickly passed and soon I was on my way to Austria...
...through Poland. Okay, maybe it was not a direct route but the fare more than made up for the inconvenient. My plane to Warsaw was a new 787 Dreamliner...but I was in the back so it was not quite as dreamy.
WIen
Vienna is sectioned into 23 districts all surrounding the 1st district located in the city center. In the center of the 1st district (or inner city) is the Stephansdom (Stephansdom Cathedral). My hotel is located in the Landstraße district (3rd district) which is close enough to the 1st district to allow easy access but far enough away to have an affordable hotel rate.
I am informed by my friend Olaf that he went to post graduate school not too far from Vienna in Krems - about an hour drive. He says he would like to join me in Vienna for the weekend and use the opportunity to reunite with some college friends and visit the school. I welcome the company for my first few days as it does help me to gain confidence if I am with someone who has some knowledge of the city.
Landstrasse bezirke
Each day I must travel to the Wien Mitte station to either catch a U Bahn or continue the walk into the inner city. In many cities, once you leave the the older part of town, the architecture begins to become bland - reflecting the newness of the area. However, Vienna does not seem to suffer that fate - at least in the districts to which I visited. The buildings - even the simple apartment buildings - were beautiful to look at.
Each morning that I start out I see new and beautiful sights. I wonder what it would be like to be surrounded by this every day...
Innere stadt
The Innere Stadt is now the 1st District of Vienna and, until the city boundaries were expanded in 1850, it was the city of Vienna. A you may imagine, this area is full of history and antiquity. Everywhere one looks there are beautiful buildings - each more grand than the next.
Saturday was the day to wander around the inner city as Olaf did not have any plans for the day (he was meeting friends later that evening) nor did I. So we walk among the beauty of the architecture that inhabits this district.
As we approach the Staphansdom (in the center of the inner city) we begin to see the horse drawn carriages that are part of the tourist machine in this area. I do find them, however, a welcome relief to the automobiles.
Juedisches Viertel
One of the areas that Olaf and I happen across during our Saturday exploration of the city is the Jewish Quarter. It is not evident in any of the signage or structures in the area, I can only tell because the geolocation on the pictures say so.
One of the monuments that we find is this...on each of the four sides there stands an angel battling some foe. I ask Olaf if he knows why one of the angels is in combat with a chicken.
Hoher Markt
The Hoher Markt Square is one of the oldest squares in Vienna - it even predates Vienna, as it was part of the Roman army camp Vindobona (although nothing remains now). During the Middle Ages, this was one of the city's most important market places (also the site of a pillory and gallows). Currently, the area houses a monument, the Vermählungsbrunnen (Wedding Fountain), and a fabulous clock.
The fabulous clock is the Ankeruhr (a large gilded clock in a local version of Art Nouveau).
Each hour, a gilded figure representing a historic figure appears, accompanied by organ music. At the stroke of noon, each of the twelve figures appear one by one and a tune to match the figure is played.
We happen by at just the right time to see the show...it is a very interesting (almost opulent) clock. Befitting the city I think. At the end of the show, we continue our exploration.
Cafe central
On Saturday, Olaf suggests that we find the Cafe Central - he remembers it fondly from the time he went to school and wants to show me this iconic coffee house. We set off on foot - following the GPS' directions and finally arrive at our destination. Cafe Central is a traditional Viennese cafe located on the ground floor of the former Bank and Stockmarket building. The cafe was opened in 1876; and in the late 19th century, it became a key meeting place of the Viennese intellectual scene and has been visited by Josip Broz Tito, Sigmund Freud, Adolf Hitler, Vladimir Lenin, and Leon Trotsky (the latter two being regulars). The cafe closed at the end of World War II but was reopened in 1975 when the building in which it was housed was renovated.
We finish our breakfast and, after a little soaking up of the atmosphere, we pay our bill and leave. Our timing was excellent as, on the way out, we pass a long queue to gain entry. We step out into the mid-morning sun to continue our walking tour of the city.
SPANISCHE HOFREITSCHULE
The Spanish Riding School was named for the Spanish horses that contributed to the Lipizzan breed. The riding school was first named in 1572 and is the oldest of its kind in the world. The first riding arena was commissioned in 1565, but it wasn't until 1729 that the white riding hall, still used today, was built. Olaf and I happen upon it on one of our outings...by chance. He suggests that I try to see a performance later in the week. I just may do that...if I can find it again.
Ok, so this morning I am taking Olaf's suggestion and I am attempting to see the Morgenarbeit (morning exercise) of the horses of the Spanish Riding School. From all that I have read, I will need to get there early to secure a good vantage point. They practice weekdays from 10:00 - 12:00 (in the winter) so I must brave the cold and rain of the early morning to see them. There is, unfortunately, no transit stop close so I start out around 9:00 to be on time - first taking the 74a bus to the Wein Mitte station where I get a melange to take with me. Then on the U3 to the Herrengasse stop and a short 5 minute walk and I arrive (well, it was supposed to be a 5 minute walk but I get a bit turned around). I am still early as they have not allowed anyone to enter the arena yet. And at least I can warm up somewhat before I must sit in the cold. Soon we are allowed in and I find a seat in the first balcony on the long side (where B or E would be located for all you dressageriders). Photos are strictly forbidden so I had to sneak some when no one was looking.
Each horse worked approximately 30 minutes and there were 5 horses at any one time in the arena. It seems that as each group of horses are changed out, they increase their level of training. The first group looks to be about 3rd level but the second group looks like 4th or higher as they practice their tempis and working pirouettes. The third group of horses are higher trained (to haute ecole) as several of them were worked in hand and are practicing their piaffe and airs above the ground.
The last group of horses are youngsters. Their youthful exuberance quite evident on their faces (and in their antics). I leave during the last few minutes of their exercise - I am cold and hungry but this has been well worth the pain - what a joy to watch. I cannot imagine having to train and exercise my horse with hundreds of eyes watching every error. My hat's off to the riders...and the horses...and I do very much miss riding my horse.
ÖSTERREICHISCHE NATIONALBIBLIOTHEK
During one of our walks, Olaf and I happen across the National Library. I say happen because I think we were a bit lost when we find it - it certainly was not by design. He asks if I would like to go inside (maybe because it has started to rain) but I surely want to see some of these wonderful buildings from the inside as well. We pay the entrance fee and step into the warm, dry interior and are treated to a most wonderous sight.
In out of the rain...
The building was built from 1723 until 1726 and the ceiling frescoes were completed in 1730 by the court painter. The frescoes are absolutely beautiful and add color and light to what might have been a heavy and austere building.
The frescoes in the entrance show worldly and military themes whereas, in the rear wing, they are presentations of Heaven and peace. An odd transition as you move though the library.
There were 4 globes in the center rotunda of the library - two earth globes (Erdglobus) and two depicting the sky (Himmelglobus). They are quite beautiful even if somewhat erroneous.
The library is home to 200,000 books dating from 1501 until 1850. Many of the manuscripts reflect the grandeur of the building which house them.
The library is truly breathtaking to see - such splendor and opulence. It is difficult to comprehend that this is a library and that one might come here to find a book.
Stadtpark
The Stadtpark (City Park) is a large municipal park - the first public park in Vienna (it opened in 1862). Scattered throughout the park are statues of famous Viennese artists, writers, and composers. To reach the inner city, I must pass by this park either by foot or by U-Bahn. For the first few days of my visit I walked but, after that, I learned to navigate the transit system and I no longer traversed through or by the park. However, during my first Sunday in Vienna, on our walk to the inner city, Olaf and I decide to walk through the park instead of by it (I think this contributes to our getting lost).
It is quiet this Sunday morning, I think most people are in church or still sleeping. But there are a few people in the park feeding the ducks or sitting on the park benches. There is a quiet, eerie feeling to the park that I attribute to the time of the day and the time of the year. Also, that there is a fine veil of mist that gives a haunted feeling to the place.
A subsequent day, on one of my jaunts (before I started riding the U Bahn), I captured more pictures. The park was more alive on this day with groups of tourists snapping pictures and denizens of Vienna attempting to take some lunch in the outdoors.
I am sure that this park is quite a beautiful sight in the warmer months...a gathering place for all.
Stephansdom
St. Stephen's Cathedral (Stephansdom) is the seat of the Archbishop of Vienna. The current Romanesque and Gothic form of the cathedral stands on the ruins of two earlier churches - the first a parish church consecrated in 1147. Built of limestone, the cathedral is 107 metres (351 ft) long, 40 metres (130 ft) wide, and 136 metres (446 ft) tall at its highest point. Over the centuries, soot and other forms of air pollution accumulating on the church have colored it black, but recent restoration projects have again returned some portions of the building to its original white.
The glory of St. Stephen's Cathedral is its ornately patterned, colored roof made of 230,000 glazed tiles. The wooden framework that supports the roof was destroyed in 1945 by a fire and, because it would have been cost prohibitive to replicate the original wooden beams, steel bracing was used instead.
I have to say that the cathedral is every bit as grand as the others I have seen, but the grandeur of the surrounding buildings (opposed to those in Ulm or Köln) somewhat steal the thunder of the structure. I would like to climb the tower (as I have done at the other churches I have visited) but I am thinking that such a feat is not Olaf's cup of tea. I make a mental note to come back and make the climb at a later date. We do stroll about the interior although much of the cathedral is closed off and there are many people about. In the square of the cathedral there are numerous men wearing mildly authentic period costume hawking concert tickets. They are plentiful and, I will come to discover, omnipresent. They do detract from what would be a nice experience and make me want to avoid the area.
Der Graben
The Graben, or trench in German, is one of the most famous streets in Vienna's city centre. It traces its origin back to the old Roman encampment of Vindobona when a trench (Graben) lay before a section of the encampment wall and remained through the 12th century. Towards the end of the 12th century, the city was enlarged and at this time the trench was filled in. The Graben, therefore, became one of the first residential streets in the new section of the city.
Sunday morning, Olaf and I walk back into the city center but, because it is Sunday, all the shops are closed. That does not seem to stop a significant number of people from walking in this area - some are window shopping. It is nice to sit and soak up the atmosphere without all of the people that would be around when the stores are open. Soon, however, we are on the move for some coffee to warm up.
We remember a nice coffee shop that we came upon the day before so we leave in search of this coffee. This is actually not as easy a prospect as one might think...we really don't know where we were when we found said coffee shop.
The Hard Rock Cafe
Olaf is meeting some of his old college friends tonight - reservations are made at the Hard Rock Cafe (I know - of all the places) for the group of us. After some iffy navigation, we arrive just before the appointed time (18:00) but there is no sign of his pals. We sit at the bar and order a drink while we wait for our table to be ready and his friends to appear. Soon we receive notice that the table is ready and we head upstairs to wait. After 30 minutes and no guests, we decide to order. After studying the menu, I decide on a hamburger (sans bun of course) and Olaf orders some form of shrubbery. Just as we finish (and have given up on their showing up), our companions (Martin and Suzy) arrive.
After several hours of conversation (and many passes by the wait staff trying to get the table empty) it is time to leave. We make our goodbyes and all move our separate ways.
MUSEUMSQUARTIER
This evening, one college friend who was not able to join us the previous evening, had suggested meeting at the Halle Cafe in the Museum Quarter. After about a 30 minute walk, we arrive at the area...but how to find the cafe? After some searching (and inquiring) we finally find the appointed meeting place and we settle in to wait.
Eventually, she arrives and, after brief introductions, they begin to catch up on the happenings since college. They are speaking in German (I don't mind) but I am not able to follow much of the conversation. Soon, she stands up to leave and makes her goodbyes. Olaf and I sit for a little while longer to finish our drinks then start out ourselves.
During our time in the cafe, it has started to rain. And not a light drizzle or mist, but a good steady (torrential) downpour. We are not relishing the thought of the long walk in the wet so we decide to try our hand at the transit system and duck into the nearest U Bahn station. Unfortunately, we overshoot our mark and end up walking in the rain anyway. Oh well...just bound to be wet this night.
KUNSTHISTORISCHES MUSEUM
This morning, I have decided to go back to the Museumsquartier. I was here a few days earlier with Olaf when we came to meet an old college friend - she suggested the venue. The setting was, of course beautiful, but it was at night so we were not able to go into any of the museums. Besides, Olaf says, they are not his '"cup of tea."
On my way in, I pass the three fellows playing accordions outside on a bench. I love the one on the end in the white mask.
The building’s internal structure combines an entrance hall, staircase, and cupola hall to form a dramatic entrance (it really is a dramatic entrance).
Ascending the stairs, one passes a large statue “Theseus Slaying the Centaur." A wealth of neo-baroque decorations create one a splendid interior.
EGYPT
The Egyptian and Near Eastern Collection has more than 17,000 objects spanning a period of almost four thousand years. I am not sure if anyone knows this - but sarcophagi are painted bright colors and are actually quite beautiful.
The absolute age of these objects is quite awe inspiring to me...to think of all the lives that have come and gone during the ages.
In the burial chambers, there are all sorts mummified animals to assist the person in the afterlife...baby alligators - and an adult one - cats, birds...the list goes on.
As I move through the rooms, I am also moving through the ages...and I can see the evolution of the artistic style.
Greece and Rome
The objects in the Collection of Greek and Roman Antiquities span a period of more than three millennia and range from Bronze Age ceramics of Cyprus (3rd millennium BC) to early Medieval.
I am trying to imagine what the soldier was like who wore this helmet. Roman soldiers had to be a Roman citizens and at least 20 years old. But most soldiers did not come from Italy. He was not supposed to get married while he was a soldier and had to remain enlisted for a minimum of 25 years. This means, if you managed to survive, you could start your life at 45.
This collection of Greek vessels is absolutely beautiful - and so many shapes and sizes. Apparently, each of the different shapes had a different use...
I often wonder how close these busts are to resembling the real person. I feel that, if you are being immortalized in marble, you might want to put your best face forward.
The room with the heads is quite dramatic - all of the busts are set up on pedestals with spotlights...the remainder of the room is softly lit making for a surprising entrance (for a museum).
The rich and the famous
The Kunst- und Wunderkammern (arts and natural wonders rooms) of the Renaissance and Baroque periods were encyclopedic, universal collections that attempted to reflect the entire knowledge of the day.
Particularly desirable were rare, curious and unusual objects. From the late Middle Ages to the Baroque, Habsburg emperors and archdukes collected exotic and uncommon materials such as shark’s teeth, which were considered to be dragon’s tongues (maybe a scorpion?).
The works in the next rooms are ornate - almost overbearingly so. Quite overbearing I think...
As I walk through the rooms filled with the knick knacks of old...I am unable to image a life in which these pieces would be on display as everyday items...it is mind boggling.
The Picture Gallery of the Kunsthistorisches Museum developed from the art collections of the House of Habsburg.
The foundations of the collection are 16th-century Venetian painting (Titian, Veronese, Tintoretto), 17th-century Flemish painting (Peter Paul Rubens, Sir Anthony Van Dyck), Early Netherlandish painting (Jan van Eyck, Rogier van der Weyden) and German Renaissance painting (Albrecht Dürer, Lucas Cranach).
In this part of the museum, there is a vey different odor - almost as if I can smell the ages trapped on the canvases in the oil paints used by all the painters. I wander through the rooms...I find I can recognize some of the famous pieces of art. Most of the paintings have a small story behind them to tell you about the people in the painting or the reason for the commission or what life was like at that time.
Schloss schönbrunn
This morning, I will be visiting Schloss Schönbrunn (and the accompanying zoo). After consulting the transit map, I set out on today's adventure. Schönbrunn Palace (Schloss Schönbrunn) is a former imperial summer residence. The 1,441-room Baroque palace is one of the most important architectural, cultural, and historical monuments.
I purchase my winter combi ticket (for the palace tour and the zoo) and I step inside to the warmth. As with all of these buildings, I am unprepared for the vast magnificence of the details and the painting of the rooms. I cannot imagine being surrounded by this every day...I wonder if one becomes immune to it...
We are not allowed to take pictures so I have to sneak them when I can.
The Schönbrunn Palace, in its present form, was built and remodelled in 1740–50s during the reign of empress Maria Theresa who received the estate as a wedding gift(!). Franz I commissioned the redecoration of the palace exterior in neoclassical style as it appears today.
The sculpted garden between the palace and the Sun Fountain (at the very end of the garden) is called the Great Parterre. I cannot believe the immensity of this garden...I can see the intricate scrollwork in the lawn which, in the warmer months, is quite beautifully inlaid with flowers in full bloom.
The garden axis points towards a hill that, since 1775, has been crowned by the Gloriette. The Gloriette was destroyed in the Second World War, but was restored by 1947, and again in 1995.
The 32 over life-size sculptures in the garden were created between 1773 and 1780 representing mythological deities and virtues. I feel that I should know them but I seem to be lacking in this knowledge.
Tiergarten Schönbrunn
Tiergarten Schönbrunn (Schönbrunn Zoo), is located on the grounds of Schönbrunn Palace. Founded as an imperial menagerie in 1752, it is the oldest zoo in the world. Today, it is considered a scientifically administered zoo which sees species conservation as its main purpose (as well as general nature conservation). The buildings of the baroque era are complemented by elements of modern zoo architecture.
At the onset of World War I, the zoo was home to 712 species and 3,500 specimens, but due to diminishing food supplies during the war, the number of specimens decreased to 900. Bombing raids in 1945 had an even greater impact on the zoo - many buildings were destroyed and specimens killed, reducing the stock of specimens to 400.
The zoo is practically empty because it is cold, and rainy, and early in the day. I do not mind the cold or the rain...and I welcome the solitude as I meander among the animals. I am able to take my time and watch the animals without people blocking view.
A problem, though, with the cold is that many of the animals are also seeking warmth - except those that have indoor housing and the polar bears. The polar bears are having fun...one of them is having a grand time with a large tire.
The penguins have both an indoor and outdoor enclosure. The indoor penguin house is really cool - the entire wall is clear - all the way to the floor - so you can see into the water to watch them swimming. Unfortunately, I think it is nap time as many of them are sleeping.
By now, I am chilled through to the bone and I happen across the elephant house. I go inside - it is very warm and only a few other people are in there. I sit and watch the elephants as I start to thaw. The baby elephant was cute and actually fell asleep against the wall and one of the adults was playing with a stick.
Eventually I am warm enough to venture back out into the damp cold of the morning.
I continue my tour of the zoo. I want to see the giraffes but I see that their enclosure is under construction...darn!
I duck into several of the indoor terrariums to keep warm as I have been here for several hours. In the tropical house there is a wonderful bat cave that you enter and the bats fly all around you - it is really cool.
The rat house and the tropical bird house were welcome respites from the cold. But not the insect house...I just moved right on by.
After I see the rhinos (they really are covered in armor) I think I have seen all of the animals. I am not sure because I did not grab a map upon entrance and I have not proceeded very systematically - but certainly I am too cold to continue if I did miss something. I walk out of the zoo to find my next stop (the labyrinth) but it is closed for the season. I really wanted to do the maze...a long time desire of mine. I guess it was just not meant to be. I make my way back through the garden, across the courtyard, back in through the lobby (where I grab a coffee to go), and to the U Bahn station where I can start my journey back to the hotel.
Belvedere
This afternoon, back at the hotel, while I was recovering from my morning exploration and doing a few hours of work, I received an email from Martin - Olaf's friend that I met the other night at dinner. He was asking if I would like to attend an art exhibit - "The women of Klimt, Schielle, and Kokoschka" - at the Belvedere. I reply that I would enjoy that very much. He says to meet him at18:00 at the State Opera House (I have not been there yet). I check my map and it should take about 30 minutes to get there using the U Bahn and some walking.
I find the appointed meeting spot right on time - and Martin is there. He tells me that we will take the S Bahn 91 to get to the Belvedere where the exhibit is held. It is good that I have purchased a 72 hour transit pass. The Belvedere is a building complex consisting of two Baroque palaces (the Upper and Lower Belvedere), the Orangery, and the Palace Stables. The grounds include tiered fountains, sculptures, and wrought iron gates. Of which I do not get to see any (except the lower Belvedere) because it closes at 18:00.
The venue is, of course, most beautiful...great vaulted ceilings, warm wood paneling, colorful frescoes painted on the ceilings above...each room just as brilliant as the previous. As we slowly walk from painting to painting (trying to avoid a large group of people surrounding a guide) I read each of the descriptions of the paintings - many of which describe the subject...but some of the painting are not all flattering. After we have seen all of the works, Martin asks which ones would I steal (if we were such types of people). As we walk back through towards the exit, we both point out about 4 that we would not mind thieving...we agreed on the same paintings. As we step out in the night, he suggests something to eat...and I heartily agree. After dinner, Martin escorts me back to the hotel, I thank him for a wonderful evening and head to my room for some much needed sleep.
Weiner staatsoper
On May 25, 1869, the opera house solemnly opened with Mozart's Don Juan perfomed in front of Emperor Franz Joseph and Empress Elisabeth. Looking at the front of the building, one can see the original structure that has been preserved since 1869. The facades are decorated in Renaissance-style arches, and the veranda emphasizes the public character of the building.
The statues of the two riders on horseback were placed on the main facade of the loggia in 1876. They were created by Ernst Julius Hähnel, and represent Erato’s two winged horses that are led by “Harmony and the Muse of Poetry”.
On the arches above the veranda are five bronze statues representing, from left to right: heroism, tragedy, fantasy, comedy, and love.
The transverse wings, which stand perpendicular to the main building, originally served as driveways for horse-drawn carriages.
Krems an der donau
Today, Olaf says he would like to visit his old university town (Krems) and we set out on the almost hour drive. Krems was first mentioned in 995 but settlement was apparent even before then (a child's grave over 27,000 years old was found here).
During the 11th and 12th centuries, Chremis, as it was then called, was almost as large as Vienna and, for a while, it was the capital. We park the car to explore the area on foot. The first area we encounter is the is the main - very charming - shopping area.
We stop for coffee at a place that he recalls sitting for many a long hour with friends. As we drink our mélanges he says that he can't figure out what the lure was...why he spent all day here...
Universität
On our way back from Stein, we detour through the university. As we are walking, Olaf points out a building - he says this was where he used to live. It was the second floor...maybe the third floor...but he cannot remember.
Olaf explains that the university used to be a cigar factory in the before time.
The building that once housed the communication department now is home to the medicine department. As we continue to wander the hallowed halls, we are in search of two things...the communication department and food. Still food...
Olaf tells me how there is a prison right next to the school such that when he walked to class, he would pass by the razor-wire topped outer wall (something never see in the US). We repeat this practice as we leave the campus on our way back to town.
The university has experienced much change since Olaf's last time here. We never did find the communication department...or food.
Back in town, we are now in search of food. We stop in a small mall with a grocery in it and we pick up some Leberkäse (a Käseleberkäse for me) and something to drink and settle down for some much needed food (and rest). This is my second Käseleberkäse (I had one yesterday) and I can see that this will soon become my go-to meal while in Vienna. Thanks Olaf for getting me hooked on these...
After some caloric restocking, we walk down to the Bistro de la Tur - a favorite "watering hole" at which Olaf explains he spent many an hour. We stop for a beer (for Olaf) and a wine spritzer for me. In front of the bistro remains a small portion of the wall that had once ensconced and protected the town but had been razed during the last third of the 19th century.
After our drink, we continue our survey of Krems moving to higher ground to see a different part of the town. There, I see a building that reminds me much of the buildings that Dr. Seuss might have in his children's books. There was not a true wall in all of its sides and the base was bulging as if the very weight of the top layers has become much too much to bear over the course of the centuries. The colors it is painted makes me think the house is no longer marking time but is, instead, mocking time.
Stein
Steiner Tor is a gate originally built in the late 15th century but refashioned in the Baroque style in the city of Krems and is considered the symbol of the city. Outside the portal are towers flanking both sides, which, like the lower floor of the gate, date from the late Middle Ages and were once part of four such gates to the entrance of the city (the other three and the wall have since been razed. Celebrating the 700-year anniversary of the city in 2005, the Steiner Tor was restored to as close to the original as possible.
In the immediate vicinity of the Steiner Tor are tall buildings that flank the street. Off of the main street are smaller alleys barely wide enough to fit a small car reflecting the age in which they originated since foot traffic and horses were likely the norm. Periodically, I spot arches, or small bridges, spanning the street connecting buildings on either side. Olaf says they are there to keep the buildings apart and upright - to keep from creeping towards together.
We are in search of another place at which Olaf had spent his time (I wonder when he had time to study). He cannot quite remember where it is but, luckily, the town is small and even if the postman does not know the place - we finally happen upon it. It appears derelict...I cannot be sure there is activity within any day or night. Olaf says the food was wonderful but when the son took over, he was sure the business was not going to continue (the son is an idiot he says). It is a shame, the eatery dates from 1650 and contains 2 gothic pillars (according to a plaque on the wall).
Dismayed at the state of disrepair one of his favorite haunts, Olaf and I turn back toward Krems (and food...hopefully food). Along the way, I am awed by the age of the buildings, many of which proudly display their antiquity with signs and painted regalia for all to see and take note.
Soon we are back at the gate and crossing back into Krems. I find the older Stein, indeed, more charming than its slightly more modern sister half and I am grateful for the short tour through its streets.
Salzburg
This morning I am on a day tour to Salzburg about 300km (184 mi) from Vienna. Salzburg was the birthplace of 18th-century composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and was the setting for the musical play and film The Sound of Music. The bus leaves at 7:15...and we are supposed to be at the loading zone (the State Opera) a half hour early...which means (looking at the abbreviated Saturday early morning transit schedule) that I need to leave at 6:05 to catch the bus...which means I need to be up a little after 5:00...this had better be worth it. Thanks to the precision of the transit system I make good time - beating the bus to the appointed pick up spot.
Our first stop is an hour and a half into the journey, at Strengberg, for breakfast. There I have a croissant and a melange, which was the absolute worst tasting coffee I have had...maybe since the organic/vegan black sludge I had last year at the Meutchefitz wunderpunkt during the KLP.
We soon continue our drive - our next respite is the Mondsee (moon lake). It is so named because of its resemblance to the crescent moon. I don't really see it...it looks a bit more like a pancreas to me...but I suppose that does not have the same ring to it as Mondsee.
About 300 km later (184 mi) at long last we reach Salzburg (literally Salt Fortress) deriving from the barges carrying salt along the river that were subject to a toll during the 8th century.
Altstadt
In the Altstadt is found beautiful buildings, baroque towers and churches, and the massive Festung Hohensalzburg and is one of the best preserved city centers north of the Alps. Our tour guide gives the group of us a short historical tour of the town and then we are on our own for about 3 hours.
Once the guided tour was finished (with explicit instructions to be back at the bus at 15:45) I begin my exploration. There are some things I want to be sure I am able to see so those will be first.
Mirabellgarten
The Mirabellgarten was laid out in 1687 and in its geometrically-arranged gardens are mythology-themed statues dating from 1730. Several scenes from The Sound of Music were filmed here. Maria and the children sing 'Do-Re-Mi' while dancing around the horse fountain and using the steps as a musical scale.
Schloss Mirabell
Originally built around 1606 on the shore of the Salzach river at the behest of Prince-Archbishop who suffered from gout and had a stroke the year prior. As such, he decided to erect a pleasure palace for himself and his mistress. When he was deposed and arrested in 1612, his successor gave the palace its current name and it was rebuilt in a Baroque style from 1721 to 1727.
The current Neoclassical appearance dates from about 1818 when it was restored after a fire and the palace was purchased by the City of Salzburg in 1866.
I am not able to tour the palace. I think it is not open but I certainly do not have enough time (only 15 minutes until I need to get to the bus). But I am able to walk through the open areas.
FESTUNG HOHENSALZBURG
FESTUNG HOHENSALZBURG
The Festung Hohensalzburg (literally High Salzburg Fortress) was built in 1077 and was greatly expanded during the following centuries until it was abandoned in 1861. It sits on a small hill and is one of the largest medieval castles in Europe.
As I walk through the guided tour, I see small signs signifying the age of the section of the building...1496...1755...1562...all the different building styles make for an architectural cacophony and demonstrate the age and importance of this fortress.
The only time that the fortress actually came under siege was during the German Peasants' War in 1525, when a group of miners, farmers, and townspeople tried to oust the sitting Prince-Archbishop (they failed).
One of the rooms had instruments of torture - there were several shaming masks.
In another room, there were real life stick figures posed in the act of a skirmish (I presume to demonstrate the different weapons) even showing the arrows flying through the air. I can just imagine one of the museum employees setting this up...
Leaving the building I am treated to a beautiful view of the town as well as an architectural hodgepodge of additions.
Mozarts geburtshaus
The Mozart family resided on the third floor of No. 9 Getreidegasse from 1747 to 1773. The house was originally built in the 12th century on ground once belonging to the Benedictine monks.
The rented apartment consisted of a kitchen, a small cabinet, a livingroom, a bedroom, and an office. All of the seven Mozart children were born here; only two of which, Maria Anna and Wolfgang Amadeus, survived.
The museum contains Mozart's childhood violin and the harpsichord on which he composed The Magic Flute.
Wienerwald
I booked a half day tour into the Vienna woods in which we will stop at several interesting...at least they sound interesting...places before returning.
baden Bei wein
Baden dates back to the days of the Romans, who knew it by the name of Aquae Cetiae or Thermae Pannonica and some ruins are still visible (it was mentioned in a deed from 869 AD) but didn't receive legal privileges until 1480. Baden was repeatedly sacked by Hungarians and Turks but flourished again each time. Indeed, even a fire in 1812 that largely destroyed the town could not keep it down and it was subsequently rebuilt. Ludwig van Beethoven stayed a number of times in Baden and his residences are tourist attractions.
Mayerling
Mayerling is a small village in the Wienerwald (Vienna woods). From 1550, the manor was in the possession of the Abbey of Heiligenkreuz but in 1886, the Crown Prince, acquired the manor and transformed it into a hunting lodge.
The scandal associated with this place is that in the hunting lodge, in 1889, the Crown Prince was found dead with his mistress, apparently as a result of suicide (or a murder suicide). Exactly what happened is unknown but copies of Mary's letters of farewell to her mother and other family members state clearly and unambiguously that Vetsera was preparing to commit suicide alongside Rudolf.
After the deaths of Prince Rudolf and Baroness Vetsera, the Emperor Franz Joseph, who wanted to found a new church, had the building turned into a convent which was settled by nuns of the Discalced Carmelite Order. You can still see the original hunting lodge...like a church front was stuck on a regular building.
Seegrotte in hinterbrühl
The Seegrotte is an underground cave system with a large grotto located under a former gypsum mine. In 1912 an underground blasting operation in the gypsum mine and caused 20 million liters (5.3 million gallons) of water to flood the mine. The lake is 60 meters below ground and is the largest subterranean lake in Europe.
So, I am not sure what I was thinking - or not thinking - since this is an underground lake. I am not sure if everyone knows...but I am very claustrophobic. As we were ushered into the EXTREMELY small tunnel and started to make our way down I almost panicked and backed out...only the quick forward pace kept me going. The tunnel was long, and dark, and well, small. That was the worst part - the ceiling was only a scant inch or so above my head.
During World War II this area was requisitioned by the German military because of the protection that the subterranean site offered. It was in this site that one of the first jet fighters in the world was produced (one of the Luftwaffe's secret weapons). A model of the plane and some original parts can be seen as well as some old tools of the original gypsum miners. The horses were used to bring up carts of gypsum from the areas below and were housed in the mine. The horses were blind due to lack of light.
We finally reach a place where there are additional stairs to the mine below (87 steps to be exact) where we can see the underground lake (this was the area that had flooded). It is very serene down here (after the panic of the tunnel) and we all load onto the boat to begin our ride. The water is as smooth as glass and the boat barely makes a ripple as it glides through. With the light positioned just so, the crystal clear water acts as a mirror providing the most beautiful reflections of the cave above. The lake floor can easily be seen but the water is only 1.5 meters deep and it is devoid of life (the sulfur level is too high). However, every day, water is removed from the grotto to keep it from flooding.
After our boat ride, we are ushered back up...once I reach the long tunnel I pick up the pace to make it to the surface quickly. I think I deserve a drink. There are a few minutes before the bus leaves so I stop at the cafe for a melange and an apple strudel. Both were quite good. Soon...it is back on the bus.
Stift Heiligenkreuz
Founded in 1133, the Abbey of Heiligenkreuz is the second-oldest Cistercian monastery in the world and the oldest continuously active and inhabited one. The Cistercians live according to “ora et labora – pray and work.” Our tour guide tells us that we must move quickly and stay on schedule - we will just make it before they start services (it is Sunday). As we quickly (and mostly silently) stroll the corridors - stopping periodically at picturesque spots for the making of visual memories - I see several young monks passing through going about their routine. I am struck by their age...so very young (at least to me).
Entrance to the abbey is through a large inner court in which stands a Baroque Holy Trinity Column (1739). The façade, as in most Cistercian churches, shows three simple windows as a symbol for the Trinity. The church combines two styles of architecture. The façade, naves and the transept (dedicated 1187) are Romanesque, while the choir (13th century) is Gothic.
The austere nave is a rare, and famous, example of Romanesque architecture in Austria. The 13th century window paintings in the choir are beautiful remnants of medieval art. The Baroness Mary Vetsera, victim of an unsolved murder in nearby Mayerling in which Crown Prince Rudolf von Habsburg died also, is buried in the village cemetery (ah yes, I remember).
Inside the church it is quite cold...much colder than the ambient temperature. I imagine what it must have been like worshiping in the before ages in the bone chilling cold. The older part of the church is Romanesque (1187) with thick heavy walls and heavy vaulted ceilings with small high windows, whereas the other part of the church demonstrates the architectural learning over the course of a couple of centuries. The newer nave (gothic - 13th century) shows ribbed vaulted ceilings and large stained glass windows allowing for a lighter, lofty - maybe more Godly - atmosphere. All the while I cannot stop thinking of the bone-chilling cold inside the church.
Shortly, it is time to leave (this is only a 1/2 day tour) and bus back to Vienna. Back at the State Opera House (where the tour concluded) the tour guide (George is his name) invites anyone from the tour to join him for lunch at Rosenberger Marktrestaurant - I decide to join him (I do not have any other plans for the day) as do the group of Italians.
To the airport...
It is Monday and my first flight is at 9:30. Rather than take an expensive taxi to the airport, I decide to try the City Airport Train (CAT) from the Wien Mitte...it touts a 16 minute express ride directly to the airport AND the ability to check your bag at the station (thereby skipping lines at the airport). I want to test it - I am slightly afraid my bag will not follow me. I check out of the hotel and wait at the bus stop for the 74A to come along. At Wien Mitte, I purchase my CAT ticket (only 14.00 €) and head into the station in the center of the mall.
As I approach the train, I pass by the counter but I do not see my airline (LOT) listed. I decide to ask (I know that LOT is a member of the flight group in which I have gold status). The agent says that they can certainly check my bag for me and send it on through to Chicago. Great! Now I do not have to think about anything other than finding my gate (and some coffee). Coffee first I think...
I am ready to leave...after a 9 day walking tour of more than 68 miles (almost 110 km) and 144,500 steps, and numerous historical sites, I am ready for some rest. Ok, I am not sure how accurate those numbers are...but that is what my watch tells me so now I tell you. Once we land in Warsaw, I head straight for the business lounge where my Gold status gains me entry...and access to the caffeine I am sorely needing. Here I wait for my next flight...the one that will bring me back.
