Before you protest, yes, I know the word "smörgåsbord" is Swedish. In an act of cultural appropriation, I am borrowing it to describe a menu of varied small dishes. The little city tour you are about to go on has a little architecture, a bit of lifestyle, some more architecture … you get the gist. We will skip the already known landmarks in favor of the undiscovered treasures. Ready for take-off?
We start on the north side of Copenhagen, in the quiet suburb Svanemoelle. Svanemoelle does not have much commercial development since it is also Denmark's army base. Main draws of Svanemoelle are the iconic natural gas power plant that provides heat and electricity to the surrounding areas, and in front of it, Denmark's largest marina.
Sailing is a popular leisure activity. The Danes are an outdoor people, and cold weather doesn't deter them from anything. In fact, I saw quite a few swimmers in a canal while I had to be all bundled up.
Not far away from Svanemoelle is the stunning Grundtvig's Church. Designed by Peter Vilhelm Jensen-Klint and built from 6 million local yellow bricks (1921-1940), this church is of striking simplicity, and almost entirely devoid of ornaments. Sunlight streaming through the windows and reflecting off the polished bricks bathes the whole building in ethereal light. Enjoy a few moments of silence before heading out into the busy streets again.
Stepping outside in Copenhagen, the first thing you notice is the omnipresence of bicycles. Bicycles everywhere! There is also easy access to a variety of public transport, and, hence, no need to have your own car. City planers have consistently put pedestrians, bikes, and people at the center of the city, and all have been rewarded with less congestion and cleaner air. Not to mention the countless other health benefits of an active lifestyle.
Copenhagen is considered the largest metropolitan area in Scandinavia, with 3.9 million people living in Greater Copenhagen. But Greater Copenhagen covers a large area, which results in fairly low population density and lots of green spaces. In 2022, Copenhagen was awarded the title “World’s Most Livable City".
With all its attractions, Copenhagen's population is steadily growing. "Integrated urban development" and "efficient mobility" are key components of current new urban developments. Case in point is the ongoing redevelopment of Nordhavn, the former industrial port to the north of the city center, and considered the largest metropolitan development in northern Europe.
Established anchor points in Nordhavn are the United Nations building (star shaped with lots of sharp angles), the German embassy (looking like German-engineered cog wheels), and the "Spidsen" (Tip), resembling a giant silver knob, the new headquarter for a large infrastructure company. Nordhavn is designed for 40,000 inhabitants plus 40,000 workers. The buildings are connected underground, and the bike paths are connected to the "Green Corridor". Nordhavn is also designed as a "5-minute neighborhood" - you will never be more than five walking minutes away from a public transportation hub. Hats off to the city planners!
The building themselves must follow strict codes with regards to sustainability. Copenhagen aims to be carbon-neutral by the year 2025, the airport already is. On top of this, 25% of the new homes have to be for low-income residents.
In the historical center of Copenhagen, right next to the Tivoli Gardens, is the popular square Axeltorv, and its recently completed five towers. The complex comes across as playful rather than massive. The towers are round and have different heights. Concave connecting buildings make the complex look "grown together", its interspaces undulating. A small park and seating areas invite the public to rest, and to enjoy the frequent public art installations and the view skywards.
At this point, I have to slip in a card that I picked up at a restaurant - Greta Thunberg's (Swedish, I know) famous quote "Bla Bla Bla". While most countries should be deeply ashamed of their environmental efforts, Denmark and its people are showing that progress is possible.
In addition to being the most livable city in the world, Copenhagen has been designated the World Capital of Architecture for 2023. Let me introduce you to the Danish Architectural Center (DAC), a museum and cultural center right on the popular harbor front. Also called the BLOX building, it is a boxy construction with lots of green glass, and plenty of accolades for its sustainability and energy efficiency. It is a large building, and when you take a closer look, you realize that has been been built across a busy street. And when you read up on it, you learn that is also continuing under the street. Below is a simplified diagram of the building layers.
Ready to move on to a different part of Copenhagen? Take the metro to the recently developed section of Ørestad, southeast of the city center, near the vast Amager nature tract.
The latest incarnation of the Ørestad development project started in the 1990s and is notable for its innovative approach to urban planning and sustainability. One of the key features of the Oerestad region is its focus on creating a high-density, mixed-use urban environment that is designed to be both livable and environmentally sustainable. This massive project has had some successes, but also various setbacks, and came almost to a complete stop during the 2007/2008 financial crisis. Many beautiful buildings have been completed and have added to the fame of "human-centric" architect Bjarke Ingles, but the anchor complex, Ørestad "downtown" by Daniel Libeskind never came to fruition. Out of the planned 20,000 inhabitants for Ørestad , only 15,000 live there. The project continues, albeit at a slower pace.
One section of the Ørestad development project is UN17 village - presumably the largest sustainable development project in the world. UN17 is an ultra-ambitious residential project with homes for up to 800 people. Focus is on using sustainable resources and creating healthy, social communities. Balconies, rooftop gardens, greenhouses, and food sharing facilities - among other things, people are encouraged to grow their own food.
Our last venue is the must-see aquarium "Den Blå Planet", the "Blue Planet". It is one metro stop from the airport, and if you ever have a few hours layover in Copenhagen, this is the place to visit. Not just one of Copenhagen's best venues, the Blue Planet is also Northern Europe's largest aquarium, home to over 400 species, and a fantastic experience for young and old.
When there, please spend a few minutes outside to appreciate the striking, wave-shaped architecture of the building. Designed by 3XN architects, it plays on the idea of endlessly flowing water in a whirlpool.
Now it is time to stop at a restaurant for a physical Smörgåsbord!
I hope you enjoyed this brief visit to one of the world's best cities, and one day you get a chance to see for yourself. There are many more interesting sights in Copenhagen worth a visit. Hopefully, next time.
Credits:
Images by Hilda Champion