I am on my way back to the Kulturelle Landpartie in the Wendland. This was somewhat a late decision as I had decided to skip it this year (I had attended last year). But, after all, I thought of the fun I had last year and, despite the possibility of even worse weather, I decide to brave the elements and attend this year.
This turns out to be a good choice - despite the earlier start of the KLP, the weather is forecasted to be beautiful. I think it will be the best weather I have ever enjoyed in Germany but, to be honest, I tend to go during the off season (spring, fall, and winter). I make arrangements for lodging - because I was late in my planning, Olaf's studio apartment is booked with other KLPers. Luckily, Olaf was able to secure his father's vacant apartment and Jens very kindly offered me his spare room...I have an abundance of beds.
Because of the location of both of the accommodations, one in Lüchow and one in Mützingen, and a desire to not impose my immobility on my hosts, I decide to rent a car and try my hand at driving the city streets and country roads of Germany (not to mention the Autobahn). I make the rental arrangements and all that is left is to wait for the appointed day of travel.
4 Mai
The day is here! My flight will leave San Fransisco at 7:30 and connect through Newark. This means an early departure from home to be sure I make it to the airport ok. Luckily, because of the connection in Newark, I do not need to go to the international terminal - this will save me some time and allow for a (slightly) more relaxed pre-flight ritual. The flight leaves on time and my journey begins!
There are direct flights from SFO to Germany but to Frankfurt or Munich not Hamburg. And then I would need to connect to Hamburg bringing me there - at the earliest - maybe 14:00. There is an earlier connecting flight but the Frankfurt airport is busy and it can take time to get through passport control and to get to the domestic terminal from the international arrival terminal. And, because the day I land is the first day of the KLP, I wanted to be sure I had the entire day to settle in and get adjusted to the new time zone. A good decision as I do not sleep well on the leg from EWR to HAM despite having the entire row to myself. And, of course, the plane does not depart on time (something about not having the food for the first class cabin).
5 Mai
I land at Hamburg at 7:30 - quite early for European standards but a good time for me (early but not too early). By the time I have a bathroom break and make my way to baggage claim my bag is there waiting for me (the only time I love to check a bag is when flying internationally). Bag in tow, I make my way through passport control and onward to...the car rental counter! I rented from Dollar...it was stated that the counter was in the terminal (I hate having to take a shuttle to the car rental place). So I start walking...and walking...and walking...seriously, where are these car rental counters!?
Aha! I found them...ummmm...there is no Dollar. Oh, here it is...at the Hertz counter. But there is no one here to help me. Or the growing line that is forming. At least I am not alone...but the counter is supposed to open at 7:00 so they are uncharacteristically late. But maybe it has something to do with the day...not only is it Father's Day but also Christi Himmelfahrt (Christ's Assension). Soon, well, somewhat soon, someone arrives to help us. The rental process proceeds smoothly (I even got an upgrade to a Ford Fiesta!...I know!) and soon I was on my way through the streets of Hamburg towards my destination of Dannenberg...driving a stick shift...following a GPS with horrible pronunciation and somewhat indecipherable traffic signs.
All is proceeding well. My GPS seems to know where to direct me and, annoyingly, seems to know all the speed limits as well...as it so often informs me when I am exceeding the posted limit. Upon reaching Dannenberg, I call Olaf and he meets me to take me to his father's house where I will begin my stay. Olaf's father is in Lüchow which is a decent sized town about 10 miles from Dannenberg. Lüchow has a slightly different feel than Dannenberg despite its similar size. Dannenberg feels like a smaller village because of the sprawl whereas Lüchow is more condensed and feels more like a town.
Olaf has kindly furnished me with a small amount of groceries so I do not need to find the grocery store right away. He introduces me to his father and procures the wifi password for me (an absolute must!) and tells me that he will contact me later with some plans for the evening. I start to settle in - unpacking a few articles of clothing, getting something to eat, and general relaxation. After almost 14 hours of constant movement and engine noise and vibration, I welcome the stillness and quiet.
Around 21:00, I get word from Olaf...he will pick me up and we will go to Jens'. I get ready and wait for him downstairs...it gives me a chance to see Lüchow at night. As with most towns in Germany, it is quiet at this hour...no people about, no cars on the road...the town is still and peaceful...very unlike Oakland. Olaf arrives shortly and we are on our way to Jens in Mützingen. We meet Jens (and Melli - Jens' new cohabitator) at their house for a few drinks. After a little while, we head to the Mützingenta for some music and action. But there isn't really...it is after the live band has finished and, although there is a DJ, there are not very many people about.
After a beer for everyone but me (I had a wine) we head back to the car and Olaf drops me back off in Lüchow before heading home. I climb the two stories to the apartment and collapse into bed. It has been a long day and I am very tired. Good night all - more adventure awaits tomorrow!
6 Mai
Unlike last year in which I was invited to join Olaf and family on several KLP outings, I am on my own for the majority of the days. This means, I will have to decipher which of the sites has the most interesting happenings (or none at all) AND navigate my way to them. But that is why I rented a car. Another confounding issue is that, because I am staying in the center of Lüchow, parking is at a premium. And paid. I discovered one area that does not need payment but it has a two hour limit between 9:00 to 18:00. This means that I will need to move my car by 11:00 (allowing me the 2 hours from 9:00) and the earliest I can return to the apartment is 16:00 (allowing me two hours at the end). This is not such an easy thing to do...unless there are several KLP sites that are interesting.
Unfortunately, many of the sites are not as active during the day - especially on week days - and it is making it a bit problematic to find somewhere to be for the few hours I need to be away. However, today, I have a plan. I will head to the Mützingenta (where I was last night) where I know there is good coffee and food, and something to do (the craft fair) at least for a little while. And it opens at 11:00 so the timing is perfect. I turn on my GPS and make my way out of Lüchow...
The Mützingenta
...soon I arrive at my destination and, because it is Friday and very busy at the Mützingenta, I use Jens' house to park (ha ha) and walk down to the main area.
It is as I remembered it from last year...filled with crafts and people. As I walk around the craft booths, I am trying to remember what had been here before. I recognize a few of the booths but the rest are new this year (at least to me). I snap some photos as I am waking...actually, I am less looking and more waiting for the wild boar sausage to finish cooking.
I move to inside the building where there is more handiwork.
I make my way back to the Wild Wendland sausage vendor and I see that the sausages are finally ready. Good - I am hungry! I buy one and sit at a bench to do some people watching and soon I am finished eating my sausage.
After I eat my sausage and complete my circuit of the Mützingenta, I walk back to my car at Jens' - I stop in and thank him for the use of his driveway for parking. One of his friends from Hamburg (that I know) is there and they are having a barbecue. They invite me to stay - and I am happy to do so. I also have a conference call so I will be able to use his wifi for this.
The weather is absolutely beautiful and I sit outside (everyone sits outside) in the shade of a tree (although the movement of the sun forces us to chase the shade around the yard).
Barbecue time!
After several rounds of delicious coffee, it is time to start with wine (it is after 17:00) and Jens brings out a nice bottle of red wine for us to sip while the barbecuing commences.
After dinner (around 20:00) I return to Lüchow but soon after I arrive, I receive a message from Olaf to meet him in Neu Tramm for some music.
The band tonight is Gastone billed as "Pasta for the ears: from Indi Pop to Spaghetti Ska." Okaaayyy...I meet Olaf in Neu Tramm and we head to Raum 2 where the band is already playing.
I remember Neu Tramm last year as having some very interesting bands from several countries. We pay the entrance fee, grab a drink, and settle into some vacant old armchairs to enjoy some new sounds. Luckily, it is not as crowded as it has been other times so we can just enjoy the music without fighting a large crowd for space and our vantage point allows us to still (somewhat) hold a conversation.
After the band finishes, it is late. We walk back to our cars and say goodnight...I drive the few miles back to my temporary housing in silence...contemplating the day's events.
7 Mai
Another day, another decision about where to go for the afternoon. Lucklily, because it is Saturday, I only need to stay out until 15:00 instead of 18:00. But, I also need supplies and the stores are closed on Sunday and I am running low on food and I have no water. So, I walk down to the market to pick up a few essential items...water, cheese, more milk for my Müsli, and chocolate (of course).
After my shopping expedition, I am on my way to Güstritz Villa Wendland. I enter the destination into the GPS and start off.
As is usual with the KLP sites, parking can be a bit of a hassle. Many people bike to the points but, although the weather was great for biking, I have no bicycle. No matter, the real trick is to determine if, upon coming to the end of the line of cars, it is worth it to try for a better space or just park and walk. My usual pattern is to just park at the end of the line of cars, only because I hate trying to turn around on the very small country roads. And, although many people will park facing the wrong direction, I have seen many a car endorsed with the pink slips of paper signifying a parking ticket. So, as per my usual modus operandi, I take my place at the end of the line cars and walk.
The location is very nice - a B&B set on a back road - very quiet. Olaf said the pizza is good here...but, since I ate before I came, I am not very hungry. But I do think a coffee is in order. I order a cappuccino and find a spot to sit on a bench somewhat in the shade. There is a peacock on the roof of the alcohol tent - protesting loudly in the morning. An older couple, with coffees in hand, asks if the places next to me are free. "Ja," I respond. The woman suggests that we move the bench more under the cover of the tent. So, we are all sitting on the bench and she starts up a conversation.
First starting with the noisy peacock and then moving on to a coat her mother that - I think - had feathers on it...but the coat was too much and she (the woman) never really liked it. The conversation then changed directions somewhat because she noticed some pollen on her pants so she started about clothing and the cost of clothing and something about dresses versus pants (I think) and how pants were easier. The conversation switched again to her daughter and something about children (I think maybe a grandchild) but then the conversation moved off to the youth of today and nose rings...meanwhile, I have finished my coffee and am trying to follow the conversation AND figure out how to extricate myself from this situation without letting on I do not really speak German. I screw up all my courage and, during a lull in the conversation, I say that I need to go and to have a good day. They reply with "alles gute," (all the best).
I did it! I drop off my cup at the bussing station and stroll through the rest of the artists booths. I make my way back to my car. The second stop for me today is a little bit out of the way but they are billing Irish music that sounds like it might be interesting. The village is Trebel...I program my GPS and start out. Well, sort of...I do not have very good cell signal so I have to drive in the general direction I think I need to go until I have a stronger signal and I can receive the much needed driving directions. Arriving at the location I park and look for the venue.
Well, there is an issue...the entertainment that is supposed to be playing at 14:30 now says 16:30 - a full two hours from now! I am quite disappointed... I really wanted to see them but I cannot imagine waiting for that length of time. I grudgingly head back to the car while thinking about what my next move will be. I suppose I will go to Mützingen to see Jens. He asked, last night, if they would be seeing me tomorrow and I certainly will take him up on his offer.
I must have selected a scenic route on my GPS because I am traveling through some very small back roads. But the countryside is so beautiful that I do not mind one bit.
Mützingen
I reach Jens' place and he and Melli welcome me and make me a most delicious coffee.
Tonight, Jens' sister and her boyfriend will be over - a real party!
Soon, it is barbecue time (a repeat of the previous night's wonderful fare)...
...and a switch from coffee to a more adult beverage - one of my favorites, a vodkalemon.
Once the sun sets, and it begins to become cooler, Jens gathers items to burn in the fire pit.
Eventually, we are joined by Olaf and we catch up on the day's adventures as we walk to the Mützingenta to listen to some music.
The band is good (although there is not much time left of their performance) but the DJ that was scheduled after (DJ Flacco) is also good. Around 23:00, Olaf and I walk back to Jens' where we have our cars parked. Jens' sister and boyfriend are just leaving and we all say our farewells, get into our cars, and head to our respective abodes. It has been a wonderful evening.
8 Mai
This morning, Sunday, I do not need to move my car but it is also a day that has some interesting KLP sites. My first stop will be Corvin Gut...although, for some reason, the GPS says it is Korvin. It has to be the same place...I hope.
Corvin Gut
I do make it...it is the same place (despite the GPS' confusion). I am here to see "Heart of Gold" - playing Neil Young to Muddy Waters which has a starting time of 11:00. I saw them last year and I enjoyed them. But I am running a little behind so I won't be there at the start of their set. After the concert, at 13:30, is an old car and tractor show which sounds like it might be interesting. And, since I will already be there, it is easy for me to check it out. Last on my list for a KLP site to visit is a small site that will host an Irish folk band at 14:00...but not the same one I missed yesterday.
Heart of Gold
When I arrive, the band has already started their set. If fact, it is shortly after I find a good seat in the shade that they take a break...it figures. But it is a short break and they are soon back at it...a little Muddy Waters, a little Neil Young...
I leave early...although the car show doesn't start for another 30 minutes, I want to avoid a large group of people blocking my view and I also want to be able to see the cars AND make it to the next KLP (which is a little ways away).
The OLDTIMER car show...
...for old cars (and tractors). There were several more cars (and many more tractors) that had shown up during the time I was listening to the band.
Although there are still a few more more cars and tractors arriving, I head out as my next stop is some distance and I want to make sure I make the start of the entertainment.
My next stop is Sallahn - I see it on my journey from Lüchow to Mützingen whenever I go to see Jens.
The way to the villages are well marked with yellow road signs to signify the villages direction or that you have arrived (or left). Unfortunately, some clever hooligan decided to paint over many of the signs with the identical color yellow...and replace the town's name with some other word - like anarchy or atomic or something. It would not be so bad if
- I were more familiar with the roads and
- if they were consistent in the word that replaced the town's real name.
Good thing I have my GPS...I arrive at Sallahn and look for parking...
The Wunderpunkt at Sallahn
There are two reasons...ok maybe three reasons...why I would select a KLP site to visit. One is that I have not been there before. Another is that there is some entertainment I am interested in seeing as well as a fair number of artists to peruse while I am waiting for the act to begin. The last is that a minimum of coffee is offered - and some type of food (not vegetarian) is a big plus. The KLP point at Sallahn meets all of my criteria...food, entertainment, and many crafts. Also, a tent to block the sun's relentless rays.
The KLP sites are all well marked - even from the road - so that you know where you need to be. Since the Wunderpunkte are almost all at a barn or someone's property, they all bear the house number for that property. This is Sallahn 7.
As I was early for the Land Lubbers show, I left before they finished (I had been there for 2.5 hours already). I walk back to my car and drive back to Lüchow.
I return to Lüchow and decide that it is a good time to wash my hair as it is still early and the sun is shining in the skylight which will allow me to dry my hair without using a blow dryer. It is peaceful and warm after my shower and I snooze a little as I am sitting in the sun waiting for my hair to dry. Some hours later, Olaf messages and asks if I would like to join him at a Turkish restaurant for dinner.
"Sure, I have never had Turkish food before."
He says he will let me know when he is downstairs and we can go to the restaurant. It is called Tandure and it is just around the corner from my flat...I make a mental note of its location so I might eat there again if I were so inclined. It is late and the staff seem to be annoyed that we arrive for dinner...but they are open so...
We sit outside in the courtyard (the restaurant is an old hotel) and order a drink while we decide what to order. Olaf says he will order the lamb cutlets and I decide to order the same (not really knowing the menu...you know...Turkish food written in German...) but I see when the food arrives that it is just lamb chops (yum) so nothing too daring. We chat as we eat about where we went and what we saw...soon it is definitely time for some sleep (despite the nap) - Olaf walks me to the door and we say goodnight.
9 Mai
This morning, like the others, I need to move the car from its parking spot. So, I get up, have some coffee and Müsli, and look to see what might be planned for the KLP Wunderpunkte. Not much is happening at the sites (I would not expect it to be so on Monday but I was hoping) so I message Olaf and tell him that I was thinking about going to Mützingenta for some coffee - he says that he is finishing up some errands and will let me know when he might join me.
Amtsgarten
But, as it is close to 11:00, I know that I will need to find another place to put my car while I am waiting for him. I could leave to the Mützingenta but there is no cell signal so I would not know if he is able to join me there. I will wait in Lüchow and do some work while I wait. But I still need to move the car. As I drive around the block (so to speak) I spy a small park close to the apartment...and a parking space (great!).
I squeeze the car into the small space and before I go back to the apartment, I think I will explore the park. It is very peaceful...the bird song only broken by an occasional lawn mower.
The Amtsturm is a remnant of an old castle that sat on this spot. Most if it is gone (succumbing to fire in 1811) but the original footprint can still be seen on the ground. A park was designed on the site of the old castle using the remnants of the long ago architectural elements and the last remaining tower serves as a museum.
Unfortunately, it is closed due to illness (I am thinking the attendant not the tower).
After a little time in the park, I walk back to the car, trying to decide if I should move it again. I decide to leave it in the spot because, as I check the sign when walking back, I note that it is a 2 hour parking zone.
Close to 13:00, Olaf messages me that he is on the way to the Mützingenta... he will go by motorcycle (...I am a little jealous) because it is a perfect day for it. I walk back to where I left my car and I notice the parking sign said 2-hour parking with payment (you must put a little receipt in the windshield)...I am fully expecting a ticket on my car but I see a clean windshield when I walk up. It looks like I got lucky. A few minutes later and I am on my way. I am able to find a close parking spot and walk the short distance to the venue...from the street I catch sight of Olaf inside at one of the craft booths - he is at the leather maker in the corner. I know that he recently lost the tobacco pouch he purchased last year. It is good that I spot him so I don't have to wander around to find him.
As I approach, Olaf is just finishing the transaction with the leather maker and has requested a slight alteration to the tobacco pouch to allow for his extra large papers to fit better. When done, we start canvassing the area - of course, I have been here a few times before but always with more people. Now that there are fewer people, I can better see some of the artists' work.
We sit down for a coffee...or two...and watch the people. It is very comfortable at this spot...there is a tent for protection against the sun, pretty decent coffee (certainly better than mine), an almost perfect temperature with a nice breeze and when the wind is just right a weak cell signal can be found, and an interesting view. But soon it is time for him to return and I need to go back to Lüchow to do some work as it is just now morning for my colleagues in Ohio. Mondays during the KLP are not as active so there is no evening point at which I could partake so, it is an evening in. I pour myself a vodkalemon and work until I am tired then turn in. I know that tomorrow will be a new adventure...
10 Mai
This morning I get up and make some coffee - I still don't have the coffee to water ratio right but at least I can fix my error with some milk if need be. I have some work to do for a few hours before I head out (again, I need to move my car by 11:00). I consult the KLP website for today and I see the meager offerings...most likely because it is Tuesday and morning. So, once again, I opt to head to the Mützingenta where I know it is quiet and I can people watch and drink a decent cup of coffee.
And...if I am very lucky...the wind will be blowing just right for me to get a cell signal. Once there, I check to see if anyone is about at Jens' (neither he nor Melli is at home) before I head across the street. I find a table under the awning near the area that Olaf and I visited the day before...where I had luck finding a weak cell signal ...and order a cappuccino before sitting to watch the day go by.
Jens is still not home (I check again on my way out) so I drive back to Lüchow for some food to start a few hours of work. Since it is Tuesday, Olaf asks if I would like to join him at the weekly "therapy group" at Lina's Bottega in Dannenberg around 21:00. "Yup," I reply. So at 20:30ish I start driving. I notice that there is an absolutely beautiful sunset this evening which I am able to capture from the car.
My driving directions are somewhat complicated as Lina's is on a one way street so I need to come from the other direction to find the restaurant. When I arrive, everyone is already there so I join the group. Lina's does not have my favorite drink (vodkalemon) so I order my second favorite (Aperol spritz) and sit down to (try) to follow the conversations around me.
Around 23:30, it is time to go. I drop Olaf off at his house (he came on foot) and I drive the 30 min back to Lüchow, park, and go upstairs to bed. It has been a long day.
11 Mai
I wake fairly early (6:00) compared to some of the other days since last night was an early sleep night. This gives me additional time in the morning to do some work before I leave the wifi zone. The necessity of me leaving at 11:00 because of the parking situation is actually a blessing in disguise because it does not allow me to sit inside all day. So, today I am planning on going to Bülitz and Kussebode. After I have my coffee and müsli, I get dressed and head out into the mid morning sun.
My first stop is Bülitz. I remember this site from last year - especially the large wind turbines, the old fire truck guarding the entrance, the fine hand crafted items, and an excellent cup of coffee (and horrible vegan chocolate cake). I am looking forward to a good cup of coffee.
Bülitz 31
The wind turbines were still there (go figure) but the fire truck was absent. I wander among the stalls looking at the wares - I see some repeats from last year but there are also new items. The mild weather has brought the voluminous lilac trees to bloom filling the air with their sweet tantalizing odor. Which is good, because this village used to have a few pig farms ...and that odor is not one to fade quickly...not at all.
As I come to the edge of the field where the delicious coffee was last year I see...nothing. Nothing except these large dioramas...
There is something oddly comforting about this village even though I find it to be a strange odorous mixture of wonderful lilac blooms and old swine (depending how the breeze shifts). But still no coffee.
As I leave, I see there is another KLP site just a short walk down the road. Maybe there is coffee there...
This site is much different than the one down the street...just on the approach I can see that there will be significant differences!
Looking around but not finding any coffee...alcohol yes, coffee - no!
Still no coffee to be found. Olaf will inform me later that the food vendor arrived late and was located on the outside of town. Oh well, now on to Kussebode - I know they had good sausages there. At least they did last year. The number of handwork stalls number fewer this year than last year - a shame, there was something I should have purchased last year that I was hoping to pick up this year. Nope - don't see the vendor. Just goes to reinforce that you should not wait if you see something you want...the chance may not come around again.
On the way out of Kussebode I spot a weathered cement pyramid - I had heard about these last year. They were placed where they could block the transport of atomic waste into the area and people would put their hands in the holes and grab on to a bar on the inside. In this way, neither the people nor the obstacle could be removed. This was a highly effective strategy. I need a cup of coffee and it is still too early to return to the flat in Lüchow so I head to the Mützingenta where I know I will get a place to sit and a good coffee. After my coffee, and at an hour which will allow me to park legally, I drive back to Lüchow for a few hours of work and dinner.
Later, my watch notifies me of an incoming message - it is Olaf asking "Mützingenta oder Neu Tramm?" A good question...but a quick consultation of the websites for each those locations shows Neu Tramm to be a better option. And it is closer for Olaf to get back home afterward. So, my last stop for the night is Neu Tramm where CJ Laufi is mixing it up old school. He is billed as Der einzige Cassetten Jockey der Republik - "The only cassette jockey of the Republic," playing punk, hip hop, country (there was no country), Detroit techno, and music with soul. The party has already started by the time we arrive.
The music is a mix of 80's alternative, some Prince, some Bowie, some 60's soul, and some 70's funk. We watch the dancers while sipping on vodkalemons. At Lina's, on Tuesday, Olaf had been talking about the bathrooms at Raum 2 (where most of the concerts are held). I don't recall ever being in the bathrooms here...he says it is something I have to see. I am not quite sure what to expect...
Ok, I was not expecting this...there really are no words to describe all that is going on in these areas. The men's room in black and red and heavily tagged but the graffiti does not take away from the overall effect. The women's room is more fluid in its graphics...red hearts amid yellow flames (I think). Neu Tramm is edgier than some other points and certainly its adornments are reflective of that.
This is one of the later evening points, many stop at 1:00 or so but this one goes on until 3:00 and it is approaching that time. Olaf and I walk back to our cars and say a good night. By the time I am in bed is it about 3:00 - but it has been a most fun - and interesting - evening!
12 Mai
My late evening has caused me to sleep in - until 8:30 (!) but the extra sleep is welcomed. I get up, put the coffee on, and turn on the computer to see what email might have come in that I didn't see. There isn't much - but some guidance from a colleague on a design on which we are working. The coffee is ready so I grab a cup and munch on a protein bar while I sit to work on the task at hand. Nearing the end of the second cup and I have completed my morning work...I send it off for review and my thoughts turn toward what is on my agenda today. Looking at the KLP website I select two points that look interesting. One I was at last year, Weitsche, and the other is new (Tießau) but has a musical duo I saw a little of last year which I enjoyed. I slather on the sunscreen and head out for my next experience.
I was at this point last year, the one thing I do like is that the sites change every year. Some are similar but never exactly as they had been previously. The artisans at Weitsche were all completely new and I move slowly among the stalls. One woman is working with wool and makes pictures made out of it (I never would have even thought such a thing was possible).
Tießau
My next stop is Tießau to see Duo Fado - a duo of Spanish guitar and Portuguese guitar (for the most part) but also with a hand organ. I am early...I think I have found the place. Usually there is a plethora of cars to mark the KLP sites but not so at many of the points to which I have been during the week. I decide this must be the place and leave the car and walk to the building.
I need to fill 45 minutes...without a good cell signal. I purchase a cup of coffee and sit in a corner out of reach of the sun to watch the goings on.
A cat repeatedly emerges from inside the shop to sit on the front stoop and survey all his kingdom. Then, inexplicably, he scampers back inside only to reemerge a few moments later. I am uncertain what game he is playing but he is certainly enjoying himself.
Once my coffee is finished, I meander down to where the concert will be held passing by a drawing that strikes me as almost the spitting image of my horse, Owen. I know that a majority of horses are colored the same but it seems that the artist has captured Owen's expression - without ever having seen him.
Duo Fado
I walk down the hill behind the building and follow the path to a clearing in the trees. Here I find a grouping of chairs and benches and a smattering of people. The two performers are tuning up their instruments. I take a spot leaning against a tree on the edge.
Soon it is time for me to leave - although the concert is not over, I have had several emails make their way through the spotty cell service letting me know it is time to start the second half of my work day.
I return to Lüchow to play the usual game of "let's find a parking spot," I am not having any luck. I secure a pay-for-parking space where I sit and wait to see if there will be something open in my regular area in a few minutes. I am very hungry and the call of nature is actually yelling...but I must sit and wait. After some time (feels like forever but I think it was only 15 minutes) I start to make my way back to check out the situation. No, still no cars have moved but I did see a free parking for 1 hour back at the other street...I just need to come from the other direction. But, the best laid plans...I manage to get around the block to come from the other direction but I missed the street because I never drive from that way and I didn't recognize the turn. Now I am heading out of town...
So, I swing back to the street that runs parallel to the main street (missing the turn to the street with the parking again) and weave my way back towards the apartment. After about a 10 minute detour, I make it back to my alley...only to find that the only empty spot has just been taken. I park on the other side of the alley (illegally) with a mental note to come down and move the car in a bit to the allowed parking side. After a small dinner and a few hours of work, I receive a message from Olaf that he will be staying in for the evening. I contemplate if I should go out but decide to give myself an early bedtime (so to speak) and I continue with a few more hours of work before turning in around midnight.
13 Mai
Early to bed and early to rise - I am awake early (around 6:00) and the town is still and the sun is just starting to reach the skylights that adorn my flat. I start the coffee pot and sit down with a mug of müsli (there are no bowls). The müsli is delicious but I must remember to rinse the mug right away after finishing the cereal - I do not know which component of müsli has a cement-like characteristic if allowed to dry. And I need the mug for my coffee. Today almost all of the KLP sites are closed as there is a large KLP Wunderpunkt in Gorleben.
History time!
On this location, the protesters built over the course of several days a village of around 110 huts, made from wood and clay, which was a typical style of protest for anti-nuclear activists at the time. The almost 5000 occupiers organized community life during the 33-day occupation around a model of grassroots democracy. Among the buildings were numerous community facilities, like the 100-person-capacity Friendship House, greenhouses, an infirmary, a hairdressing salon and an area for waste disposal. There was also a sauna and bathing facilities. The group decision-making processes took place at several locations - these places also hosted lectures, discussions, readings, rock concerts, and puppet shows (are you seeing a correlation?).
Gorleben has become famous because of plans to build a national repository for Germany's radioactive waste there. A protest camp, The Free Republic of Wendland, was established in May 1980 by a group protesting against the establishment of a nuclear waste dump at the location. During the 33 day occupation, Radio Free Wendland began a pirate radio broadcast from a tower at the occupation site and residents of the surrounding region supported the occupation with food and wood and water was piped in by a wind-powered well and warmed with solar power. The site was cleared of its inhabitants by the Lower Saxony police and the Federal Border Guard on June 4, 1980.
In 2008, more than 15,000 people took part in protests blocking the shipping route with tractors and sit-down demonstrations. Efforts aside, in November, a shipment of radioactive waste arrived at a storage site near Gorleben after being delayed. Although the demonstrations continue, today, in Gorleben, there are two interim storage units for radioactive waste.
I was not at Gorleben last year - Olaf went with his family and left me with Jens telling me that we would meet there. Except Jens did not want to go citing all the people and the difficult parking as excuses. Jens and I ended up at the Mützingenta joining the other 14 people not at Gorleben. This year will be different...I have a car.
Gorleben
Olaf says he would like to meet me in Lüchow for lunch (he has a few errands to do before the afternoon in Gorleben). We have lunch at the restaurant across the street...along with food, I found the wifi. I need to stop here and tell you that Olaf's father has wifi. But, it likes to play hide and seek with me...and it is very good at hiding. I am told today that the cafe across the street will have a stronger signal from the router because of the router's location. Figures. At 12:30, Olaf says he needs to leave and suggests that I leave shortly to Gorleben to ensure a decent parking space. We part and I tell him I will see him in a few hours. I return to the flat, change shirts, add yet more sunscreen to any exposed body part, and head out. Once I get to Gorleben, I start the parking dance. I don't park at the end but, instead, drive a little farther until I find a spot that I feel is reasonably close. I park and follow the people already walking to the festivities. I am wondering how far I will have to walk as I follow the line of people into the woods...oh! I am here! Well, that was quick...
I walk into the cordoned off area - there are already many vendors setting up and bands getting ready to perform. Before we parted, Olaf said to meet them by the Green Peace boat so once I find that landmark I look for a good spot settle in. The sun is unrelenting so I am looking along the treeline in the shade for the perfect vantage point.
I find a nice, shady area and sit on the ground to watch...and wait. I see these two fellows come across my field of view...Olaf told me about them when we saw them at a previous KLP site. They are journeymen on their three (or two) year and one day long "Walz" after they have completed their apprenticeship during which they are not allowed to return to within 50km of their home town. At the beginning of their journey they take only five Euros and, at the completion of the journey, they should return home with the same amount of money thereby taking the journey for the experience.
Journeymen are easily spotted by their clothing - many wear bell bottom pants, a collarless white shirt, a vest and a jacket (with striking pearl buttons, and a hat (often a stovepipe hat but it can be different). They also carry a traditional curled hiking stick. This is a commonly seen outfit but I have seen other clothing - likely signifying a different gild. Once only an option available to men, I did see a few journeywomen around. The only prerequisite is that the person is single without children, debt-free, and is able to travel.
They must travel by foot or hitch-hike as public transport is discouraged but can travel to distant lands if they are able to get there (usually by boat). Primarily, the aim of the travels is to learn new trade practices and gain knowledge of foreign places and countries. In doing so, they expand and pass on their occupational knowledge and expertise. At the end of their Walz, upon returning home, they must climb over their hometown's welcome sign. This is an old tradition from the Middle Ages that is still alive today...kinda cool huh?!
From my spot, I see Karin and Johannes walk by me - I message Olaf and he says to meet them by the red tent. Okay. I leave my shady spot to find the red tent in front of the Green Peace boat. It wasn't really that difficult....the boat is a big landmark. I find Olaf and we meet up with Karin and Johannes to finish wandering the spectacle that is Gorleben.
All of a sudden I hear a familiar accent...I turn towards it and I see a slight figure sporting a goatee and a stingy brimmed fedora...an American. He is attempting to gather a crowd for his act - a magic act. He is successful in his endeavor. During the show, there was one fellow who walked very purposefully, very deliberately right through the middle of the performance. Approximately five minutes later, he walks back in the opposite direction - once again right down the center. His magic is not bad but he is pretty entertaining so I drop two Euros in his hat at the end of his show.
I discover he is from Arizona and his name is Seth. He said it was so good to hear his name pronounced correctly...I said that I could understand and he is likely being called "zet" using the German pronunciation of letters.
Close to 18:00, Olaf tells me that they will be heading home (almost bed time for Johannes) and I am expected to join them at their house (if I arrive before them then I can sit in the garden). He mentions that he will be going to the birthday celebration of Philip (a member of the Tuesday therapy group) and that I am invited to come along. I tell him that I will be stopping in Lüchow first but I will be there. A brief stop at the flat for me to wash up, go to the bathroom, answer a few work emails, and grab a few bites to eat...oh yeah, and rehydrate, and I am on my way to Dannenberg.
I arrive at Olaf's house and enter the back way by the garden. I see Karin puttering around and she shows me all the changes that have happened since the last time I was there...including a new rabbit that seems to be wreaking havoc with the dynamics in the rabbit hutch. I sit in the gazebo...but I see that there is no wifi access (!) in the garden as there has been during previous visits. A short time later, Olaf emerges from the house having completed Johannes' bedtime ritual and we make the short drive to Philip's house where the party is already underway.
It is a nice party - I only know Philip, Olaf, and Wolfgang but I meet other member's of Philip's family - it is a nice, low key affair with a lot of conversation. Close to midnight, it is time to go and I drive Olaf to his house before driving on to Lüchow for the night.
14 Mai
Today is Saturday and I still need to move the car. But before I do that I need to figure out today's agenda. I put on the coffee and I note my meager food supplies. I know that my time here is coming to a close so I don't need much food but I do need some. And the stores are not open Sunday or Monday (it is a holiday). Sipping my coffee, I peruse the KLP website for today's points of interest...it looks like it will be Beesem and Lübeln - both having a long list of artists and crafts. But first, food shopping.
After shopping and putting my groceries away, I leave the apartment again for the day's adventures. As I approach my car, I see a piece of paper under the windshield wiper. Well, it seems that it has finally happened...it was only a matter of time...a parking ticket! I reach over to grab the piece of paper - wait a minute. This isn't a ticket - it is a little note from Jens and Melli...how very sweet. And much more preferable to a parking ticket.
Relieved, I get in the car and follow the GPS directions to my first KLP point for the day - Beesem.
Beesem 8
I arrive at the place...I think. There aren't many cars but many people are traveling by bicycle and there are plenty of them arriving. I park and follow the bikes to where the activity is.
This is an interesting site - the artists here have a love of bright colors (except one ink artist) and animals...and fish (not really an animal).
As I walk back to the car, I see the sign for the other site here at Beesem...just down the road in the other direction.
Bessem 20
Beesem 20 is completely different than the part I just came from. Here, they have food cooked by fire (it smells delicious) and plenty of interesting and slightly odd artists' works.
After walking around outside...the sculptures in wood and metal...the handmade wool yarn...the jewelry...I head into one of the barns. The artist showcased here...I don't even really have words...
There is such a different mix of art work in here, I cannot tell if it is all one person's vision or...
The best I could figure was that this statue is a salute (of a sort) to the way the site for the nuclear waste storage was pinpointed on a map.
I leave the art in the barn and I move to a second building. This building houses some very interesting work. One in particular has drawn a crowd...of men...I can't get in to see what is going on.
Oh, I see now. These are working pieces (lamps, fans, stuff) all made from found and discarded electronic parts like calculators and radios. Something like real working steampunk...but not as polished. I found it fascinating but difficult to get in to see for all men blocking the view.
I am finished looking at all that is to be seen here in Beesem - what a wonderful KLP site this has been! I am off to my second Wunderpunkt... Lübeln (I was here last year).
Lübeln rundlingsdorf
I enjoyed this site last year...it is a museum as well as a KLP site and I am interested to see what I can discover here this year.
The glass artist is a repeat from last year but still quite interesting especially in the sun.
A new artist this year is a metal worker forming animals (and people) from discarded pieces.
I am starting to get hungry...I had noticed food as I walked in so I head in that direction to see what is available. I spot a sausage vendor. Ok...a bio wurst from Galloway (a type of cattle breed). The sausages are not quite done yet but I wait in line for the almost 5 minutes it takes to finish cooking. I am glad that I did...my sausage is delicious. I eat as I walk to my car.
I haven't stopped by to see Jens and Melli in a while and I am not sure if I will get the opportunity again before I leave - I only have a few days left here in Germany. So, I point the car towards Mützingen - there are quite a few cars in his driveway but Jens points out a spot into which I can fit. Ever the gracious hosts, they welcome me with a coffee. Melli is unpacking some of her kitchen belongings and Jens is entertaining some friends in the TV room. I stay in the kitchen and talk to Melli while she is working. Once Jens' friends leave he says that they will be barbecuing and I am invited to stay (which I gladly do). But we eat indoors...that weather is not nice enough to eat outside.
The Mützingenta afterparty
After dinner, we watch a little TV, well, we finish watching the newest Star Wars movie in German (it is still difficult for me to get used to the dubbed actors voices). Just at the last few minutes of the movie we are joined by Olaf who, not having seen the movie previously, is lost. However, he is here so that we can go listen to the last evening of music at the Mützingenta. After some discussion, the four of us walk the short distance down to the event - we can hear the music from the house and it gets louder as we near the venue. It is dark - very dark - there are no street lamps to light the way and, as a consequence, I think every star that is shining is visible. Such a wonderful sight to behold....oh! I can see the Little Dipper. But my friend Orion, who would be my companion in the U.S., is not visible to me.
The music is good and we are all enjoying people watching and soaking up the atmosphere and listening to the music. After an hour or so, Jens and Melli indicate that they are heading back to the house...Olaf and I stay for more music and another drink. This year, the trees have been swathed in colorful lights and we walk around to see them.
Eventually, though, it is time for Olaf and I to head back too. It is late and it is getting a little cold.
Jens' after afterparty
Olaf and I arrive back at Jens' house, fully expecting to see it in darkness. But no. Jens is puttering around and is quick to offer us a drink when we arrive. Soon, one drink turns into many...actually, a sort of drinking inventory of his vast liquor stores. In the form of shots. After this amount of alcohol, I certainly cannot drive so I will be staying here tonight.
It is late...very late...much later than I am wanting it to be. Melli comes down from the bedroom upstairs - I am thinking we woke her but she says she has not been able to sleep. Olaf and I take this as an opportune time to make make our goodnight and farewell.
Gute nacht...schlaf schön...
15 Mai
I wake this morning...the house is quiet. I opt to make my departure from Jens' before it gets too late in the morning. Also, I don't want Jens and Melli to feel burdened this morning after being such gracious hosts last night so I slip out and start the 30ish minute drive to the flat in Lüchow. I arrive to a parking space (yay!) and I climb the two flights of stairs. I know the KLP is nearing its end so any sites I have been putting off visiting I should put on my "KLP bucket list." I put on some coffee and study the website for my day's agenda.
Coffee ✔️
Water ✔️
Breakfast ✔️
Giant threatening stormcloud ✔️
Well, I am not going to let a little deluge keep me from the KLP. It certainly didn't last year.
So, I finish getting ready (don't need the sunscreen today) and I leave for my first stop...Breese in der Marsch where a group of cello students are performing at 13:30. And I have not been to Breese yet this year.
Breese in der Marsch
I arrive in Breese and locate a parking place - it is a little distance from where all the interesting stuff is happening but I am glad for the walk (I missed riding a bicycle this year) even if it is raining.
The students have already started their recital by the time I arrive - they have set up under a tree. I find a good vantage point and settle in to listen. I can tell they are students - there are a few off notes but all in all they are not too bad.
After about 4 songs, it starts to rain again - and more than a little sprinkling...some serious rain. The ensemble finishes the song and in record time they leap to their feet and shove their cellos into their cases. I didn't really think about it but I am sure that moisture does not mix well with a wooden instrument like the cello.
I look toward the tents to see if I would have the opportunity to view the crafts here but I see the rain has forced all the people into the little space that is covered.
Not wanting to fight the crowd of people, I opt to move on to my next stop...Güstritz.
I walk back to my car...quickly...and start off.
Here, in Güstritz Kommune, I will see a performance artist called Cesar do his...I think a one man circus act. Also, Olaf mentioned that it was an interesting point so here I am.
Güstritz Kommune
I walk toward the center of the village where, most likely, all the activity is occurring.
As I am walking, looking at the buildings and at the items at each of the houses, I hear..."Hi!" I look up and I see this man looking at me..."Hi," I respond. He comes up to me and asks me where I am from...I am thinking to myself, "how is it that this always happens to me?!" I am perfectly happy minding my own business and the oddest people come up to me...
It turns out he is from Georgia but has been away from the US for 23 years. He lives in the upstairs loft of one of the barns with his wife. He asked why I was here and I said it was for the KLP (which he did not seem to know much about) but he said he is here to spread good karma. I am still not sure why he selected me out of all the other people walking by. After promising to stop by later, I am able to complete my journey to the center of the village to find Cesar Circus Performer.
The performer is not too difficult to find...a big red truck in the center of town with a bunch of people standing by. His act is by no means polished...his music kept running out and he was having technical difficulties but I feel that added to the charm. The weather had turned quite ugly at this point and he asked if everyone wanted him to continue or stop. There was a resounding approval for his continuing with his act so in the middle of hail and wind is this lone performer and a crowd of children and adults braving the elements.
I don't know if he shortened his act some because of the inclement weather but, eventually, he sheepishly asked for hat cash (as do many of the performers at the KLP) and the parents give the children a coin or two to put into his hat. I drop in two Euros and on my way out I pass these two elegant Percheron horses coming off the trailer (I think they were at a different KLP site)...I miss my horse.
Because the weather was so bad, all of the items for sale I had seen walking in to the village were no longer in the front yard...and there was no sign of the man from Georgia.
My next stop is a familiar one - Güstritz Villa Wendland - one of my earliest KLP stops. There is supposed to be a guitar duo "Los Marvelous" and I know that the pizza is good there (Olaf said so) and I can get a coffee to warm me up. When I arrive, it is a vastly different sight then when I was here a few days ago.
Güstritz villa Wendland
Gone is the atmosphere of fun and frivolity...the playbills that once enticed one to new experiences with bright colors and provocative words are now a sodden mess; the colors faded and the words gone - no match for Mother Nature.
All the people are huddled under whatever cover there was available and the guitar duo I have come to see was nowhere to be found...oh wait, I found them. They are inside the three-sided enclosed stage and some of the seating had been placed inside as well. No sound equipment is being used so the only ones that can hear them over the rain are the people up on the stage. I stand in line for a pizza but after several minutes of standing in the rain I think better of it. I decide to return to Lüchow where I can get warm and get something to eat.
Neu Tramm
Some hours later, after a nap and with a full belly, I receive a text from Olaf to meet him in Neu Tramm. I get bundled up (it was quite cold today) and drive to the venue. Olaf is already there and we move up to Raum 2 where the band will be playing. We are early so we grab a drink and find a good location. The band is "Guts Pie Earshot" - a duo of an electric cello and drums.
Soon the band starts and the place is getting full of people. Luckily we came early so we have a seat but, unfortunately, the band is obscured by all the people dancing. No matter though, we are here to hear the music. They are playing...well, I guess some combination of electro-techno-punk music. They are actually quite good. It is getting extremely warm in the venue and I have removed all the clothing I can and I am still sweating. Olaf says he is getting a little light headed...we step outside for some fresh air. It is after 23:00 but Olaf says he has had only some toast for dinner so we are searching for food. Not an easy task at this hour. We drive to the McDonalds but they have already closed by the time we arrive. Oh well. I find it very interesting that I started my day and ended it with a cello.
We say our goodnights and each drive home. Although I have a longer drive...much longer. In one of the small villages I drive through between Dannenberg and Lüchow, I see a grey figure crumpled on the road. I had already slowed down to 50kph (about 30mph) when I entered the town limits so I slowed down to a stop. I see now that it is a young man (not sure if he is drunk or...) wearing dark clothing that had been lying on the road. A young woman that was with him had dragged him to his feet and was pushing him away from the road - she was shouting to him but I couldn't hear what she said. I can imagine though...I make it the rest of the way to Lüchow without event and I am soon asleep. Tomorrow is my last day here in the Wendland.
16 Mai
Okay, I tell myself as I wake in the morning, I cannot waste this day...it is my last. I start the coffee maker and look online for today's events. I think I might forge new ground and head in a completely different direction. I select Prezier and Kriwitz for the crafts and Lübeln and Küsten for some entertainment.
Prezier
I drive to Kriwitz first - it is very close to Prezier but I am unable to locate the actual KLP site so I move on to my second point. Prezier is a fully working farm...I see sheep, horses, pigs, chickens and ducks, and rabbits.
Oh, and goats. The first stop for me here is an informational booth that describes the different animals that make up a farm. There are pamphlets for people to take - something like 4H might put out for promotion.
This KLP site seems to celebrate animals on wall and door murals.
I love this cozy farm...although I imagine it is a lot of work every day. After I am finished looking around, I walk back to my car to move on to the next Wunderpunkt.
There are a few more stops on my list of places to visit but, as I approach each of the towns, I see that they are quite busy (it is a holiday and the last day of the KLP) and I am not feeling very much like fighting for a parking spot and then trying to locate the entertainment. So, for each of the remaining three sites, I do not stop but instead, continue on to Lüchow. I park and sit in silence contemplating the end of my time at the KLP. Now that I have cell service, I receive a message from Olaf - he, Johannes, and his sister in law are going to the Mützingenta and would I like to join them. Of course! I start my car again and drive on.
The last Mützingenta
I arrive and, because of the holiday and it being the last day, there is nary a parking space to be found. I try Jens' - his vehicles are there but no answer to my knock. I don't want to take the one space I see next to his van. I continue down the road and park at the end of a long line of cars and walk. When I arrive, I make a circuit of the grounds (there is no cell service here so no way to send or receive a message) to see if Olaf et al are here. I don't see them...I think a coffee is in order - OMG the line is huge. Oh well, I think to myself, I don't have anything better to do as I queue up at the end of the line.
I am next, after waiting in this line for like 10 minutes, but now that I am almost going to attain my coffee goal, I spot Olaf and Johannes. Do I get my coffee or do I leave the line...I decide to leave the line. I walk down to the tent where Johannes and Olaf are standing. Well, Johannes is wandering and Olaf is standing.
After greetings and an introduction to Olaf's sister in law, Dagmar, we continue the slow meandering among the artisan's craftwork. I have seen all the this several times and I think this is the second time here for Olaf but Johannes and Dagmar have not been to the Mützingenta this year.
Johannes is eyeing the tent with some toys scattered about...and Olaf suggests a coffee. I readily accept because my aborted mission earlier has left me bereft of caffeine. Dagmar says she will visit the toilet and meet us at the coffee tent. Olaf asks Johannes if he would like to join us or play on his own. Then he receives instructions about how to find us if he needs to. We walk to the coffee bar (there is no line now) and look for a table that has a view of where Johannes is playing.
We sip our coffee and wait for Dagmar to return from the bathroom while keeping an eye on Johannes. It is taking quite a while for Dagmar to appear...but maybe she is looking at some of the booths. After a little while, Johannes is looking like he is looking for dad...Olaf leaves and goes down to see if there is a problem. He left his coffee...maybe not a good idea that.
With Olaf gone, Dagmar returns - she says she was waiting at another white tent. Now we are waiting for Olaf and Johannes to return. Finally we are all together...now what. Pizza! We will get the delicious wood oven pizza that is offered here.
We order the pizzas and sit at a table and wait for them to be ready. Dagmar and I have a glass of red wine while we wait. Eventually, the pizzas are ready...mine is absolutely delicious and I devour it quickly.
After our pizzas, we (very briefly) discuss staying for the Chaos Variate but ultimately decide against it and we walk back to our cars. I say goodbye to Johannes and Dagmar and tell Olaf I will see him later as I walk the last little bit to my car alone.
Once back at the apartment, I finish packing and have a bite to eat while I answer some work emails and work on a couple of projects. Olaf texts me that he is downstairs and I go down to let him in. We will stay in tonight...the festivities that begin with a bang go out with a whisper and there is nothing going on after 20:00. We pour ourselves a vodkalemon (we need to finish off the bitter lemon) and discuss all that has occurred over the past 12 days...and compare it to last year.
Despite seeing each other almost every night, we have not had the opportunity to talk much - we were always at some activity. Soon...very soon, it is late and I need to get up early for my day tomorrow. We say goodbye and he leaves to drive home. I slip into a sound slumber.
17 Mai
This morning I wake early - I have a full itinerary. I have a meeting at one of our sister companies in Hamburg at 9:00 and my flight is at 14:00. This means I need to drive to the airport, return the rental car, check my bag in for my flight, and take a taxi to my meeting. Counting back from 9:00, I figure I need to leave at 6:00 at the latest. I get ready and finish the last little packing I need to do. I do not make coffee since I will not have time to drink it before I leave (I will grab one at the airport) but I do finish off the müsli. I open my navigation app to see the route I will be taking...oh no, it will take longer than expected to drive there. I had better leave right now!
Despite the chaotic nature of the morning, everything works as planned. I make my meeting only a few minutes late and, at the meeting's conclusion, a taxi is waiting to whisk me to the airport. My first leg from Hamburg to Frankfurt was uneventful and by the time I am on board the plane in Frankfurt, I am very tired. But before I drift to sleep, I recall all my time at this year's KLP. I had a lot of fun and new experiences, but there is one thing I realize...
Credits:
Melinda Culver