Dumpster Score is a queer owned, sustainable, slow fashion brand based out of Athens, Ohio. This webpage highlights what slow versus fast fashion means, the creator behind this brand, how they have built community through their work, and the uniqueness of their products.
Story, photos, and videos by: Gabriela (GG) Gabennesch
Fast fashion is, "an approach to the design, creation, and marketing of clothing fashions that emphasizes making fashion trends quickly and cheaply available to consumers," as defined by Webster Dictionary.
The effects of fast fashion on our environment are significantly harmful. It is responsible for 10% of human caused greenhouse gas emissions and 20% of global wastewater. 53 million metric tons of discarded clothing are either incinerated or go to landfills each year. The fashion industry also produces 1.2 million metric tons of CO2 each year. To feed the fashion industry's need for wood pulp to make fabrics like rayon, viscose and others, 70 million tons of trees are cut down each year. That number is expected to double by 2034, speeding up the deforestation of some of the world's endangered forests. And this is just to name a few of the many negative effects.
There are societal effects of fast fashion as well. A U.S. Department of Labor report found evidence of forced child labor in the fashion industry in Argentina, Bangladesh, Brazil, China, India, Indonesia, the Philippines, Turkey, Vietnam, and other countries. There is also an exploitation of women between the ages of 18-24 (which, according to Remake, accounts for 80% of people who make apparel). These women work for little to no money and can barely afford to live off their wages.
Slow fashion is centered around the concept of producing clothings and accessories that are environmentally sustainable and socially ethical. There is more time and thought put into the production of slow fashion than the fast-paced fashion that has become typical in today's society. Slow fashion artists use raw and recycled materials and works with a small team to make and sell their products. They do not outsource their manufacturing, or exploit their workers for profit.
Annabelle Heart (she/he they/them), the creator of Dumpster Score, is 28 years old and currently working out of a studio space in Athens, Ohio. Their mission statement as follows is:
"I started my artistic journey at a very young age. I remember when I was 7 making lions out of paper plates and selling them door to door for 50 cents to get a sub down the street. I remember selling friendship bracelets in high school to pay for lunch that day. Art has always been valuable in my eyes, as a way to give a piece of myself to another. Something tangible that people saw worth in.
When I became homeless as an adult, and for the past 10 years, it was a necessity, finding discarded materials meant I had clothes to wear and making them my own was the only way to separate myself from my situation. Saying yes these were free, but I’m going to make them into something you would buy dirty and right off my back! I had someone do that once. They offered me $200 for the pants I had been wearing for months, right off my body! This in turn gave me the confidence once I settled into planting roots in my tiny town to quit my male dominated industry jobs and do something for myself!
I started my little handmade clothing brand with no money and nothing but my hands. Dumpster Score is my brain child and the culmination of many years of struggling to find myself. But one thing has remained the same, and that’s my thirst for an artistic life and a platform to share that. I am an easy going creature just looking to make the world a little less glum. I inspire to create wearable art that embodies armor, that has your back, and covers you in love and protection while creating space for freedom of expression. I aim to be inclusive to all shapes, sizes, and journeys and become intimately involved in making everyone feel beautiful. I pull inspiration from all things wether it’s a feeling or thought, and even nature and era based fashion to name a few.
My focus is on creating something out of nothing with materials that would have otherwise been discarded. Creating out of necessity with only the things I have available to me. I hope that Dumpster Score means something different to anyone that encounters my soul work and that I can bring joy to the masses. All of the materials I use have been donated to me by locals in my town who are inspired by my work, everyone has a box of cotton, or lace, or unfinished projects they wish they had time for and in seeing my work they opt to give up the things they hadn’t gotten around to. I’m able to bring new life to things that would have gotten thrown away in a move, or thrown away to make space for other things. I volunteer with other local organizations to sort and help organize donations for trade in materials as well, and save all scraps and supplies I’m given, or pass them on to other local makers to pay it forward. I believe art means community, fundraising, and freedom of expression and even though everyone’s journey is different we all end up melting together in front of profound art."
There is something to be said about the culture of trash art and the community that it provides. The importance of upcycling and permaculture. - Annabelle Heart
Annabelle lives 30 minutes outside of Athens in Glouster, Ohio. They live in a small community in the woods with their partner Pat as well as their dog and a few cats. Currently the two of them are renovating their sustainable home, which uses a solar panel for energy, a fireplace for heating, and a composting toilet. Their intentional community is on 95 acres with livestock, self sustaining gardens, and a cistern to collect rain water for use in the homes. It is a permaculture based community with wood workers, engineers, counselors, designers, herbalists, yoga instructors, graphic designers and activists. Sustainability isn't just a business model, but a way of life for them. When Annabelle isn't working on projects for their business or their home, they like to unwind by playing video games and getting together with friends.
As Annabelle is still starting out and working towards expanding their brand, they do almost everything entirely themself. From conceptualizing the designs and picking out the materials to cutting out patterns and sewing by machine and hand, to taking photos of the clothing and posting/promoting them online, to then going to vending events and selling the clothes, Annabelle does it all!
Occassionally Annabelle works with locals who intern to help them out. They want to work with more interns so they can spread out some of their work load and be able to sell their 'ready to wear' line at a more accessible price to consumers, as well as teach new skills to people wanting to learn. Currently, they are in the process of trying to hire their first official employee.
Everything Annabelle makes uses old fabric and clothing and other items that have already been in circulation. Everyday Annabelle finds something on the sidewalk or in a dumpster and adds it to the collection of materials they have to work with. They see a way to repurpose almost anything and are able to conceptialize entire pieces of clothing or jewlery based on one found or donated item.
Although Annabelle is currently working as a one person team, they have a lot of help from their partner and members of the Athens community.
Annabelle decided to get a work space in Athens as a way of keeping home life and work life seperate, but ended up gaining a community of support and connections to help their business grow. One of the ways in which they stay connected to members of the community is through the donations they recieve. A lot of friends and other locals donate clothing, fabric, and other materials, but they also recieve donations from organizations in Athens like Passion Works Studio and the Community MakersSpace.
One of Annabelle's favorite things about in person vending (one of the ways in which they sell their clothing) is the one on one connections and resources they make. They like being able to interact with the customers buying their work, and often times these vending events are where they meet models, makeup artists and photographers to collaborate with. A lot of times people will also get inspired by viewing their work in person, and come back with bags of clothing and various trinkets to donate for use.
Annabelle's brand features a wide variety of clothing and accessory items. The products they make are geared towards a gender non-binary audience as a way to be more accessible and inclusive to people in the queer community or feel as though they don't fit a mold.
Annabelle says they are obsessed with skin, so a lot of what they make are clothing items where some skin can be shown. One of their favorite items to make are leather harnesses, some of which are commissioned by performers to wear. They also like the "clown-core" style, so they make a lot of fun collars, cuffs and corsets.
The Dumpster Score clothing line is an elevated style of upcycling, giving it a high fashion feel. The clothing is also extremely well made, which is reflected in the time spent making it and the price of the items. The longer an item takes to make, or the more work they have to do to make it, the more expensive it will be. Unlike fast fashion, this brand of clothing is not making lots of cheep clothing at a fast rate. Everything Annabelle makes is one of a kind and was made with purpose and love.
Samantha, a customer who purchased a skirt from Dumpster Score via Etsy said:
I absolutely adore this addition to my LARP outfit! It's great for when I'm off the fighting feild and wandering around. My favorite are the additions of the little bones and trinkets, the ruffles, and the cutest pocket ever! It also shipped hella fast.
Dumpster Score's products can be found for purchase on Etsy, as well as the re-selling app, Depop. Their instagram page also keeps people updated on when and where Annabelle is doing in person vends.