THE WEST...
The "Wild West" is defined as the time following the Civil War to the early 1900's. Many Americans were drawn to move West by the promises of open land, freedom from cities, railroad building, outward expansion, and precious metal mining. Many of these settlers were not prepared for the hardships that living in the West would bring. Thus, "western wear" was born to help these settlers function in their new home.
Origin...
Western wear has functional roots. Items such as chaps, boots, and hats were created and purchased purely on utilitarian value. They helped Westerners endure the harsh conditions of the West such as dirt storms, dry weather, brutal summers, and frigid winters. These items are durable goods. They are somewhat expensive but know for high quality, authentic sources, long product lives, and their ability to withstand strenuous conditions. Items, such as boots, originally had a high consumption frequency and were used daily by ranchers and cowboys. Nowadays, there is a split in the market for the majority of these goods: consumers who are purchasing for functional use out West and consumers who are purchasing for aesthetics and fashion, not the longevity of the products.
WHAT IS WESTERN WEAR?
The Boots
Cowboy boots were created mainly for riding horseback. Traditional boots included "spurs" which are used for signaling directions to horses in western-style riding. The "perfect-fitting boot" is when your heels slide in the heel of the boot with wool socks on. This ensures the highest comfort level. When people complain about their cowboy boots hurting their feet this is a sign that they got the wrong size. If you think about it, these boots were made for ranchers and cowboys to wear them all day everyday, so why would they hurt? A good pair of authentic boots can cost around $500.
The Hat
The original hat is the Stetson. Stetson Company was founded in Philadelphia, PA in 1865. Known as the "Boss of the Plains", Stetson has lead the market with a purpose since its origin: to provide authentic and high-quality hats rooted in American history. Similar to what is discussed in the TED Talk "How Great Leaders Inspire Action," Stetson started with a purpose that has promoted their longevity and enduring success over time. Since they are a purpose-driven company, they have built great brand loyalty and many consumers' families having been buying from the brand for generations.
The Bandana
The bandana originated in Asian countries, but its functional use came in handy in the West for protection against frequent dust storms or to wipe sweat off of one's forehead. The classic pattern, which is paisley, is Persian. These pieces of cloth have been used throughout American history in several contexts from Martha Washington having a souvenir bandana of George Washington on horseback to the bandana being a prominent feature on the WWII "We Can Do It" poster campaign. The bandana may have be born on the other side of the world but it is American at heart and is an iconic feature of the John Wayne look.
The Denim
Two of the most iconic denim companies are Levi Strauss and Co. (founded in 1853) and Wrangler (founded in 1904). Wrangler jeans are more Western in root because they were created by Rodeo Ben, a tailor who set out to create the most authentic Western jeans. Several big names in rodeo in 1947 endorsed Wrangler jeans. They acted as both influencers and early-adopters for the new brand, causing a boom in sales and popularity. Wrangler remains a primary sponsor for rodeo events.
The Fringe
Fringe appliqué is rooted in Native American culture. According to startupfashion.com, a website that dives into the history of garments, "For many tribes, fringe served a variety of purposes; it was both decorative and practical. For example, this kind of embellishment helped the wearer to repel rainwater- drops would travel down the tassels and away from the body." Though it was not pioneered by cowboys, fringe has become associated with the Western "look" likely due to its Native American and Wild West ties.
ICONS IN WESTERN WEAR
These celebrities have acted as influencers in varying media platforms to promote the "Western" look. They have been innovative in their fashion choices and have popularized the previously mentioned items.
John Wayne
John Wayne was the most recognizable cowboy in the Western film genre. Made famous by director John Ford, Wayne appeared in over 80 films between the years 1926-1977. He was a notable figure and easily recognizable by his "uniform": a Stetson hat, a tanned leather vest or jacket (sometimes with fringe), cowboy boots, jeans, chaps, and a bandana. He rarely strayed from this standard for any of his films and his look became iconic. As with all movie stars, fashion follows behind in a muted way. People weren't walking around in chaps, but they were taking inspiration from his hats, boots, and bandanas.
Dolly Parton
Know as a female pioneer in country music, Dolly Parton is recognizable not only for her music but also her style. Her "look" includes cowboy boots, rhinestones, fringe, hats, and bell bottoms. She inspired and continues to inspire Western fashion. The catchphrase "What Would Dolly Do?" has become a huge marketing point. She sells merchandise with this phrase in her stores at her theme park, "Dollywood," and it is sold in Reese Witherspoon's boutique "Draper James."
Kacey Musgraves
Kacey Musgraves is a current country star that came on to the scene in 2008 and has been rapidly rising in popularity. She is known for her classic country style that pushes the envelope; she wears fringe, cowboy boots, hats, and bell bottoms but adds a new twist. She sells her own merchandise that often hints at the use of illegal substances, like marijuana, and frequently drops swear words on stage during concerts. Musgraves continually influences new country audiences by challenging the goody-goody look of past stars like Dolly Parton and Reba McIntire. She is a new face of the changing country music scene and the revival of previously out-of-style Western wear.
Yellowstone
Yellowstone: A TV Show on the Rise
Yellowstone first premiered on the Paramount Network in 2018. Featuring the Dutton family, who own the Yellowstone Ranch in Montana, the show is known for its classic Western fashion and "true grit" characters. The Duttons wear a plethora of Western items in their nature such as hats, denim, and boots. Product placement in the show includes advertisements for Wrangler jeans along with many of their products with noticeable logos. The popularity of the show has boosted Western clothing revival by re-popularizing Wrangler and cowboy boot brands such as Tecovas, who both frequently advertise during premieres of the show on cable. Viewers want to emulate the "look" of their favorite characters from the show, bringing Western wear out of being solely sold for function and into the realm of aesthetic.
A brand in the revival
Free People
The brand Free People is owned by the company URBN, who also owns Urban Outfitters and Anthropologie. They sell to the "free-spited" customer with a mix of inspirations from Bohemian to Western. The brand currently sells Wrangler jeans and multiple variations of the cowboy boot. The company also sells a variety of paisley printed products (like the classic bandana) such as boots and jackets.
Free people products
Social Media
The following images are screenshots of social influencers wearing "Western Wear."
Summary
Western Wear has surfaced from solely being marketed towards the micro culture of those who buy it for its functionality to an aesthetic that consumers buy for style and hedonic value. Shows like Yellowstone, influencers like Kacey Musgraves, and brands like Free People have revived the "look". The revival of Western Wear is an excellent example of consumer behavior marketing because influencers, like previously mentioned, have revived a previously out-dated style and consumers have boosted their purchases at brands such as Wrangler to follow. Fourteen East Magazine writer Samantha Smith says, "Reclaiming a sense of confidence, like the heroic individual of the 'lone cowboy' in old Westerns, is therapeutic in a sense of faking it to make it or die trying. Standing out in something so delicate, so simply elegant and yet so plain as clothing is a start." Maybe we all are just living our childhood dreams of being cowboys and cowgirls though this new clothing revival.
sources
A&E Television Networks. (2009, November 24). John Wayne Dies. History.com. Retrieved November 30, 2021, from https://www.history.com/this-day-in-history/john-wayne-dies.
About Us. Stetson. (n.d.). Retrieved November 30, 2021, from https://stetson.com/pages/about-us.
By. (1970, November 9). Cowboy-Cowgirl-Cowculture: Is western wear a new reality? Fourteen East. Retrieved November 30, 2021, from http://fourteeneastmag.com/index.php/2018/11/09/cowgir-cowboy-cowculture-is-western-wear-a-new-reality/.
Levis history. Levi Strauss & Co. (2019, September 30). Retrieved November 30, 2021, from https://www.levistrauss.com/levis-history/.
Mads Jakobsen Full Bio View our Ed, & Policy, F. B. V. our E. (2018, May 9). The history of the Bandana. Heddels. Retrieved November 30, 2021, from https://www.heddels.com/2017/05/the-history-of-the-bandana/.
The old west. Legends of America. (n.d.). Retrieved November 30, 2021, from https://www.legendsofamerica.com/old-west/.
Sergey. (2021, November 29). Yellowstone TV show product placement seen on screen. Product Placement Blog. Retrieved November 30, 2021, from https://productplacementblog.com/tag/yellowstone/.
Sinek, S. (n.d.). How great leaders inspire action. TED. Retrieved November 30, 2021, from https://www.ted.com/talks/simon_sinek_how_great_leaders_inspire_action.
(2019, February 26). Fashion archives: The history of fringe. StartUp FASHION. Retrieved November 30, 2021, from https://startupfashion.com/fashion-archives-the-history-of-fringe/.
Wrangler. Wrangler®. (n.d.). Retrieved November 30, 2021, from https://www.wrangler.com/history.html.
Credits:
Created with images by MOHANN - "grand teton lake yellowstone national park" • gay2016 - "cowboy rodeo horse" • paulbr75 - "boots for sale sign advertisement" • claudid - "cowboy hat western" • Yuri_B - "sunset silhouette cowboy"