COSTA RICA 2022, PART 3 The Cloud Forest

2022 was a big year for us. Hali had a significant birthday this year, and we also had our 25th anniversary. Big year. So we decided that we could splurge and take a trip to Costa Rica with one of our favorite guides - Greg Basco of Foto Verde Tours. Greg leads photographic tours in Costa Rica (and other places). The tour we joined last year had the same outline as the first tour we took with Greg 10 years prior. The places that we visited during this trip were different from our trip 10 years ago, but the overall theme was similar. Two noticeable differences were (1) the size of the group was a bit larger this time around, and (2) the co-leader for this tour was Greg's partner in Foto Verde Tours, Paulo Valerio-Murphy. Paulo, like Greg, has an often humorous personality that we enjoyed very much. The last (but not least) staff person on this trip was our friendly driver, Enrique.

For us, the total trip length was about 2 weeks long. The proper tour was only 10 days and began when all the participants met at a wonderful little resort on the outskirts of San Jose -- The Hotel Bougainvillea. We then traveled to the lowlands rain forest and spent a few days there. Next we moved on to the Arenal Volcano and spend a few days there. Then we traveled to the cloud forest and spend a few days there. Lastly we traveled back to the Hotel Bougainvillea and spent one final night there before our departure. The outline of the tour was designed so that the destinations begin at the lowest altitude and move upward as the trip progresses. We took so many pictures at each of the main destinations that we have decided to break up the web pages into one page per major destination (3 web pages for this trip). The first page showed images from our stay in the lowlands rain forest (click here to see that page). The second page, covered our time at the Arenal Observatory Lodge and travel to and from that lodge (click here to see that page). This is the Third and final page which covers our time up in the Costa Rican Cloud Forest (and the travel there and back to San Jose with a stop in Zarcero). We hope you enjoy viewing these images as much as we enjoyed taking them! Happy trails!

***Click on any image to see it full size***

On the approach to Bosque de Paz we passed quite a few bucolic scenes like this one with the horse in a meadow. Taken (by Hali) from the bus with the iPhone 13 Pro.

Arrive at Bosque de Paz, biological reserve

We arrived at Bosque de Paz late in the afternoon, but we still had some time to wander the beautiful grounds. Top left, Hali's shot of a Red-tailed squirrel on a stump. These tiny squirrels were really cute. [Canon R5, RF 100-500 lens]. Top right, Hali's long exposure of the river along one of the hiking trails at the lodge. [Canon R5, RF 24-240 lens]. Bottom right, Mike's phone shot of our room at the lodge (which was rustic, but somewhere between the super rustic accommodations at low lands rain forest and the more well appointed lodges like the Arenal Volcano lodge and Hotel Bougainvillea). Bottom left, Mike's long exposure of the stream that we found during our walk about [ Nikon Z7ii, 24-70mm lens ].

Our first day in the cloud forest we went to Catarata Del Toro, where we used a special lighting setup (developed by our guides) to take hummingbird photos. Normally, we would have also been taking photos of the waterfall itself -- which is really beautiful. Unfortunately, we couldn't walk down to the base of the waterfall due to the extremely heavy rain that came through (from a tropical depression that passed through). The rain did let-up a few times, so we could take short walks around outside. However, most of our time was spent under the cover of the patio.

Hali, as usual started shooting as we got to Catarata del Toro-Upper left a male Green-Crowned Brilliant hummingbird (Heliodoxa jacula) out in the garden area. Upper right a Green Hermit (Phaethornis guy) hummingbird. [Canon R5 with the RF 100-500mm lens] The middle image is one of the few infrared images Hali took. The path outside of the restaurant we were set up in that led to the waterfall was lush and beautiful and during a break in the rain I went out to try and capture some of that [Canon RP full spectrum conversion, 720nm filter RF 24-240 lens]. Bottom: an iPhone picture of one area of the murals on the wall of the restaurant. All of the mural work we saw was outstanding.

Hali captured this sequence of these two female green-crowned brilliant hummingbirds and felt it looked like a couple where one was tuning out the other as it chided it for something. [Canon R5 with the RF 100-500mm lens].

A few shots from Mike using the Nikon D850 and the 80-400mm lens, as various birds approached the spiral ginger flower (Costus pulverulentus). On left is a A female Green-crowned Brilliant. In the middle is a male Violet Sabrewing (Campylopterus hemileucurus). On the right is a female Green-crowned Brilliant again, but this time competing with two Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola) for the sweet nectar rewards.

Hali's first setup of the day was a beautiful she-kong heliconia (Heliconia vellerigera). It attracted plenty of hummingbirds and allowed her to photograph some good interaction. Top Left: A male Violet Sabrewing coming in for a sip, but disturbing a Bananaquit intent on the same flower. Right: 2 female Green-Crowned Brilliants (in flight) vying for the flower while a male waits patiently underneath. Bottom Left: A female Green-Crowned Brilliant defending it's "right" to the Heliconia flower against a much bigger male. All images taken with the Canon R5 and the RF 100-500mm lens.

Four shots from Mike, from two different set-ups. All shots were taken using the Nikon D850 and the 80-400mm lens. The two shots up top are female Green-crowned Brilliants and a spiral ginger flower (costus pulverulentus). The shot on the upper right shows a little combat regarding who will feed next. The two shots on the bottom show a male Violet Sabrewing (Campylopterus hemileucurus) with a she kong heliconia (Heliconia vellerigera, Heliconiaceae).

Three shots from Hali. Two different setups. Left is a male Green Hermit and the She-Kong Heliconia, middle is the male Violet Saberwing and the spiral ginger flower. On the right, a Violet Sabrewing and a Bananaquit surprised each other as they tried to go for the same flower at the same time.

Three shots from Mike taken using the Nikon D850 and the 80-400mm lens. On left is a male Green Hermit (Phaethornis guy). In the middle is a female Green Hermit, and on the right is a female Green-crowned Brilliant (heliodoxa jacula).

During the breaks between our set-ups if it was raining, we kept ourselves occupied inside the restaurant. (and it rained A LOT!) One thing Hali did was stand behind the other people at the setups and shoot without being tied into the flash system. It made for some interesting silhouettes like the one on the left of a male and female Green-Crowned Brilliant on a lobster-claw heliconia. We also shot through the open sides of the restaurant using just the on-camera flash, center (Violet Sabrewing gorging on a spiral ginger) . The image on the left was from the second round of setup and is yet another Violet Sabrewing on approach to a Lantana camara flower. All shot with the Canon R5 and the RF 100-500mm lens.

Three shots from Mike taken using the Nikon D850 and the 80-400mm lens. On the left is a Coppery-headed Emerald (Elvira cupreiceps). In the middle is a female Violet Sabrewing (Campylopterus hemileucurus) -- which we almost never see at the feeders. On the right is a female Green-crowned Brilliant (Heliodoxa jacula) with a Bananaquit (Coereba flaveola).

Catarata del Toro. The rainy fog broke just enough to take some phone pictures of the falls from the top. This one was taken by Mike (full disclosure: it was post processed).

The next day was also very rainy. We stayed at the lodge and did hummingbird shoots in the covered patio. We did some "free shooting" around the grounds in between those shoots (and in between rain showers, which did have some breaks).

Early morning and a break in the rain, it gave Hali a chance to get out and stretch her legs and shoot something other than hummingbirds. Left: An Agouti parent and offspring. The agouti's were very skittish and rarely stayed still, and didn't often stray far from the underbrush. Hali got lucky to get a shot of one of the offspring nudging it's parent to either play or pay attention, but a few seconds later they were back in the brush. Right: A red squirrel enjoying some peanuts on a branch.

Three shots from Mike taken using the Nikon D850 and the 80-400mm lens. The left and middle shots show a male Violet Sabrewing (Campylopterus hemileucurus) with a Lobster Claw Heliconia (Heliconia rostrata, Heliconiaceae). The shot on the right was taken during free shooting (not part of the flash set-ups). It shows a male Green-crowned Brilliant (Heliodoxa jacula) on a mountain grape flower (Cavendishia bracteata, Ericaceae), which is actually held in the hand of a fellow tour attendee. The birds were aggressive because the feeders were taken down for the flash sessions. You could just hold out your hand and hummingbirds would zoom over to see what was there.

A few more shots from Mike during free shooting. The shots were all taken using the Nikon D850 and the 80-400mm lens. The top shot is a fern hanging over water, but the image is turned on it's side. Bottom left is just some big leaves. Bottom right is a momma Black Guan (Chamaepetes unicolor) and two of her chicks.

Back to the hummingbirds. Hali tried to pay attention to the interaction between the hummingbirds and was rewarded with these Green-Crowned Brilliants congregating on this pink banana flower (Musa velutina). Both shot with the R5 and the RF 100-500mm lens.

Tired of hummingbird images yet? Sorry, but here is 3 more from Mike. All taken using the Nikon D850 and the 80-400mm lens. We changed the settings a little to get some wing blur this time. In this case, the birds are drawn to a mountain grape flower (Cavendishia bracteata, Ericaceae), from the blueberry/cranberry family. The top two images show a female Green hermit (Phaethornis guy). The bottom image shows a female Green-crowned Brilliant (Heliodoxa jacula).

Four images from Mike, during another "free shooting" session. All except the bottom right image were taken using the Nikon D850 and the 80-400mm lens. The top left image shows a male Green-crowned Brilliant on pink banana flower (Musa velutina). On the bottom left, that bird is joined by a female of the same species. They seem to peer at each other over the flower. Maybe this is the equivalent of a romantic candle-lit lunch for hummingbirds? On the top right is a male Purple-throated Mountain-gem (Lampornis calolaemus) -- which never goes to the feeders. On the bottom right is a common tourist with a camera (Halius shootalotus).

On the left, a tiny little Black-Bellied hummingbird. They didn't come to the feeders or the setups, so it was great finding one on the grounds in the open. Right: the second setup of the day used a different light setup to create the back background. A pair of Green-Crowned Brilliants on a Brick and Butter Vine (Thunbergia mysorensis). Both shot by Hali with the Canon R5 and the RF 100-500mm lens.

Three more hummers from Mike (it's almost over, so hang in there). All were taken using the Nikon D850 and the 80-400mm lens. All three images show a female Green-crowned Brilliant (Heliodoxa jacula).

The Purple-Throated Mountain Gem is a gorgeous hummingbird, but its beauty is most apparent when it is completely front-lit with the head and neck lifted. Then you can see the iridescent aqua on the head and the magenta on its neck. Three shots by Hali, who waited patiently, eventually with a very tired arm, showing the difference from a side view to a partial frontal to a full-frontal view of the bird. All shots with the Canon R5 and the RF 100-500mm lens.

These are the last hummingbird images -- honestly! The last three are from Mike, taken with the Nikon D850 and the 80-400mm lens. All three images show the popular, female Green-crowned Brilliant (Heliodoxa jacula). The image on the right shows two engaged in mortal combat over a Brick and Butter Vine (Thunbergia mysorensis, Acanthaceae). Their parents must be appalled. You could take out an eye like that!

Big leaves. There was a small pool of water that had a little waterfall and it was full of water plants and these big leaves overhung it. Taken by Hali with the Canon R5 and the RF 100-500mm lens.

Three shots from from Mike, of things that are definitely not hummingbirds. The left and right images were taken with the Nikon D850 and the 80-400mm lens. On left is a Red-tailed squirrel (Sciurus granatensis). In the middle is a phone shot of a painted wagon wheel. It's beautifully painted. On right is a Central American Agouti (dasyprocta punctata), perched upon a log that was placed there just so that the Agouti would stand on it in exactly that way. Seriously.

Zarcero Park

On our way back to San Jose We stopped in the pretty town of Zarcero for a short break for some of our tour mates to get some bags of coffee and to stretch our legs. There is a beautiful church there that we had been in before, but there were services going on, so we did not want to disturb. The park in front of the church is filled with amazing topiary animals. Hali has tried and tried to get decent pictures of the topiary, but it's never happened. This time she took a different approach hoping that a person would walk past the opening at the back and be framed by the green. Instead, to her delight, this little girl ran up the path. She saw Hali there and wanted to see her picture, then after smiling and laughing, turned around and ran back.

Three shots from Mike (Nikon Z7ii and 24-70mm lens, except for the phone image on the top right). On left is just one example of the topiary at Zarcero Park. On top right is a beautiful bit of 'street art' on a wall in the park. At bottom right is image of a man that Mike saw standing across the street from the park. Maybe he was waiting for a ride (the man in the hat, not Mike). The scene of the man standing there caught Mike's eye, and he asked the man if he could take his picture. The man was very nice, and agreed. Mike didn't want to make the man feel uncomfortable, so he just took the one shot. Mike thanked the man and went on his way...

Back to Hotel Bougainvillea

And so we came back to The Hotel Bougainvillea. Since it was early enough, we took a last walk around the ground. Hali took out her infrared converted camera for a few last photos, the left was some of the bamboo in one of the two bamboo groves and the top right is the living plant wall. It is hard to see in infrared, but the pattern is of a butterfly. Both shots with the Full Spectrum Converted Canon RP with a 720nm filter and the RF 24-240 lens. Bottom Right: We had A LOT of gear and clothes to repack, but we got it done except for a few small things. [iPhone 13]

After dinner, we went out one last time in hopes of finding the endangered Blue-sided Leaf Frog (Agalychnis annae), also known as the Orange-eyed Leaf Frog. It had rained during the afternoon and that gave us hope to find them. We got lucky and found two, one of which was positioned nicely on this leaf, allowing Hali to crouch down and get a nice head-on shot as it was trying to go to sleep. Canon R5 with the RF 100-500mm lens.

It was nice to re-visit this photo tour again ten years after our first time around. We met new people and saw new things. What more can you ask for? Until next time... Happy trails!

Things we learned this trip...

Mike's take-away lessons from this trip: Nikon weather sealing is awesome. The D850 still rocks. I can put my flash batteries in without any light at all. Our lightweight goretex rain coats were perfect. Always put bug spray on your hands (but don't touch any critters). Always bring a bandanna. Desiccant packs are all but useless in 100% humidity.

Hali's take-away from the trip: The new RF 100-500 is an awesome lens, but has some drawbacks. The tripod mount apparently can come loose, something she hadn't experienced until one of the other Canon users on the trip told her about it, then was lucky to avert a fall when hers separated. Giving the thumb screw an extra check is now second nature. Always make sure you know which shoes are the gortex ones and which ones aren't if they are the same model. It makes a big difference when it rains much of the day. Infrared photography is very difficult in the rainforest, there's too much of the good stuff.

Created By

Hali & Jim Sowle

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